Kos: Island of Medicine

 Tingaki Beach in Kos

 

Introduction to Kos

 History of Kos

 The City

Around Kos

Practical Info

 Hotels in Kos

 Getting To Kos

  More Greece Info

 

Introduction to Kos

The island of Hippocrates has fallen on hard times lately. Kos is one of the most attractive and interesting islands in the Aegean and for that reason it was one of the first to attract travelers who were looking for beautiful sandy beaches and a mild climate. The island was large enough to handle the gradually accelerating flow of tourists and the locals built bigger and more luxurious hotels, more restaurants, discos, bars and gift shops to go along with the natural beauty of the island. These were used by large package tour companies which sent people in droves from Scandinavia and Northern Europe so that it was hard to get a room in July or August if you were traveling on your own. All the rooms were booked by the tour companies. Then, inexplicably they pulled the plug. According to hotel owners not only did the major tour companies stop booking the hotels but when travelers requested the island they were told it was booked solid and sent elsewhere. The hotels were not booked solid. They were empty and the people whose lives depended upon tourism were desperate for answers and a solution.

Kos is not the first island that has been hit by an unofficial boycott by the large tour companies. There are several explanations for why these occur. Sometimes the tour companies become tired of negotiating prices with the hotels every year so they organize a boycott which accomplishes one or two things. First of all it shows the hotel owners who is the boss and how dependent they are on the tour companies and after a year of desperation they are ready to agree to more favorable terms for the tour companies. This can also cause mass bankruptcies and the tour companies can buy coveted hotels from the banks for next to nothing. Another reason could be that the tour companies decide they want to make more of a profit and send their customers somewhere they pay less for the hotels. A client comes in to book his holiday on a Greek island and winds up in Tunisia or Turkey. For some people who are just looking for sea and sun they will be happy in Timbuktu if it has a beach and a fast-food joint nearby. But someone looking for a holiday on a Greek Island should not be coerced into an entirely different country, regardless of that countries attributes if it is just to put more money in the hands of the tour companies which after all are just big soulless corporations.

This is bad news for the people of Kos who built their beautiful hotels with the expectation that they would stay full forever. But it is good news for the traveler who wants to see a beautiful Greek island, famous for its history and fantastic beaches, because they can stay in some pretty nice hotels at near bargain prices and won 't be trampled by the tourist hordes. Maybe this is a second chance for Kos.

Because of the close association of Kos and the birth of Medicine, it is a popular place for conventions of Doctors and Healers and the facilities of the hotels enable the island to handle crowds of any size.

History of Kos

mosaic from Roman Villa

Kos is a long narrow island which is relatively flat, fertile with lots of water and is the third largest in the Dodecanese chain which hugs the coast of Asia Minor. While the interior of the island is agricultural, with many people relying on farming it is the archaeology and history which originally attracted visitors and the beaches which turned it into one of the most popular islands in Greece. Kos was the birthplace of Hippocrates , the father of medicine who lived on the island in the fourth century. It was after his death that the people of Kos built the Aesclepeion, named for the God Aesclepios, which became a hospital that was known throughout the Greek world and spread the healing methods of Hippocrates. Doctors today still take the Hippocratic oath and tourists still visit the ruins of the Asklepeion. The city of Kos was founded in 366 BC and was quite prosperous because of its location close to the shores of Asia Minor. It was devastated by an earthquake in the 6th century BC, conquered by Alexander the Great, and then fell under the protection of Ptolemy II of Egypt who was born on Kos and once again prospered. The Romans took over the island in 130 BC. It became wealthy again in the Byzantine period. In 1315 the Knights of Saint John who were based in Rhodes built the large fortress which still stands at the entrance of the harbor, using debris from the ancient town that was left over from the earthquake. In 1522 the Ottoman Turks took both Rhodes and Kos and remained in control for four hundred years until the Italians took it in 1912 as the Ottoman Empire was collapsing. In 1933 there was another earthquake which destroyed the town. Kos did not become a part of Greece until 1948. From the seventies the island saw the influx of tourists that turned farms and fields into luxury hotels with swimming pools and tennis courts, overlooking white sandy beaches and turquoise seas.

The City of Kos

Castle built by the knights of Saint John at the entrance to the harbor in Kos

The city of Kos is located on the north-east coast of the island, close to Asia Minor, another major selling point for the island since Bodrun is one of the most popular and exciting destinations in Turkey and many people choose Kos as their Greek island destination because of it's proximity. Due to the last earthquake much of Kos is either ancient or modern, nevertheless it is an attractive town with large avenues lined with palm trees, squares shaded by platanos and pines, and lush gardens everywhere. The Castle of the Knights of Saint John, with it's double wall and moat dominates the harbor. The castle is linked by a bridge to the square where Hippocrates Platanos tree stands where he supposedly used to teach (though that would make the tree well over two thousand years old, a long time even for a Platanos). Across the street is the Mosque of Gazi Hasan and it's minaret, from the eighteenth century, well preserved though one must wonder what Allah thinks about the tourist shops on the ground floor. South of the harbor are the ruins of the ancient agora with the restored columns of the 4th Century BC Temple of Aphrodite. Further south down Vasileos Pavlou street are the Casa Romana, a third century Roman Villa, the ruins of the Temple of Dionysos, the third century mosaics from the House of Europa and the restored third century Odeon. The Archaeological Museum is in Platia Eleftherias, the attractive main square which borders the ancient agora on Vassileos Pavlou about two blocks up from the harbor road of Akti Kountouroti.

There are a number of restaurants and cafes on the central waterfront and as is the case in most islands, those places on choice real estate are generally the most expensive and not always the best. Of course if your purpose is to drink coffee or something cold and take in the scenery this won't matter so just find somewhere to park yourself with the best view. If you are looking for good food and ambiance then wander around the streets of Kos town and look for restaurants like Taverna Hirodion, Olympiada, Filoxenia, Hellas, Nick the Fisherman, Ambavros, Petrino and Never On Sunday, all recommended by the highly trustworthy Lonely Planet Guide to Greece. The Cafe Aenaos and the Central Cafe are for young locals and tourists and most nightlife can be found on Diakon and Nafklirou streets. There are three discos, two of which (Heaven and Calua) have swimming pools. The Fashion Club is air-conditioned. There is also an outdoor cinema called the Orfeus open in the summer on Vasileos Georgiou which shows mostly English language films as do most movie theaters in Greece (or the world I imagine).

The ruins of the Askelepeion are about 4 kilometers south-west of town on a pine tree covered hill with a beautiful view of Kos and the Turkish coast. Hippocrates was the first doctor with a rational approach to diagnosis and healing and his center was full of people coming for treatment or to learn his methods which spread around the world. The center closed in 554 AD. The ruins occupy several levels which are connected by stairs and feature the 4th Century Temple to Aesclepios, another temple from the 1st Century and the 3rd Century Temple of Apollo as well as various other buildings of the ancient healing center. The site is easy to reach on foot or by bus or taxi, passing through the Turkish village of Platanos with its mosque, Turkish and Jewish cemeteries and the Avrup Taverna which serves traditional food from Greece and Turkey.

Around the Island of Kos

Beach town of Kefalos in Kos

Most of the beaches close to Kos town were the crowded, 'beach chair and umbrellas' variety. With the slowdown in the island's tourism it remains to be seen how crowded they will be but it is likely they won't be too bad and perhaps satisfying to those who don't want to be overwhelmed by crowds but still like to do a little people-watching with their bathing. Lampi beach is the closest good quality beach, about four kilometers north of the city. Beyond that is Tigaki which is long, sandy and great for windsurfing and Marmari which is a little less crowded. West of town are the beaches of Psalidi, Agios Fokas and Thermes with it's hot medicinal springs for treating rheumatism and arthritis. These hot springs flow into the sea and make it warmer than other beaches on the island.

The town of Kardamena is the second most popular resort on the island after Kos town and has a long attractive beach that in days past was packed with tourists. During the summer there are excursions boats from here to the island of Nisyros. The town of Mastihari is a port with a sandy beach that has excursion boats to the islands of Kalymnos and Pserimos as well as some inexpensive hotels and decent restaurants.

On the southwest end of the island, as far as you can get from Kos town, is the bay of Kefalos, five kilometers of sand and pebble beaches including Agios Stefanos with it's small island of Kastri that you can swim to, and the ruins of a fifth century basilica. (There is also an enormous Club Med). Nearby is Paradise Beach which is off the main road. Above the bay is the village of Kefalos, the southernmost village on Kos with a pleasant platia and few tourist shops. Nearby is the ancient remains of Astypalaia, not to be confused with the island of the same name. This was the capital of the island in the fifth century BC. Magic Beach, between Kefalos and Antimahia is the least developed beach in the area. Beyond Kefalos is the most remote area of Kos. The Monastery of Agiou Theologou is famous for its sunsets, it's beach and rough sea. The taverna on the beach rents out body boards for those adventurous enough to have come this far.

The Dikeos mountain range on the southeast coast of the island is covered in pine trees and is home to several villages where few tourists go and you can still see people leading lives based on tradition and agriculture as well as some towns that have embraced tourism but are no less attractive. The ruins of the castle and the medieval village of Pyli is between modern Pyli and the village of Amaniou. The villages of Asfendiou (Agios Dimitrios, Asomatos, Lagoudi, Zia and Evangelistria) are picturesque with whitewashed houses and gardens as well as spectacular views and historical churches. Near the village of Antimacheia is the airport and a Venetian Fortress.

Practical Information for Travelers to Kos

Ruins of the Aesclepion in Kos

Where to Stay

There are hotels of all categories in Kos town and there is also plenty of variety in the beach resort towns of Mastihari, Kamari and Kefalos. In the past most of these places were monopolized by the tour companies and finding a room in July and August was difficult but things have changed. The major choice the traveler to any island has to make is whether he wants to stay in town and go to the beaches in the day and be close to home for the nightlife or whether he wants to stay on the beach and go to town at night. The good news is that you can have your choice and you can probably stay in a really nice hotel on a beach close to town for a very good rate. For assistance in deciding and booking see www.hotelsofgreece.com where you can read reviews of hotels and book them through agencies. I recommend booking with reliable travel agencies in Athens rather then directly with the hotels since it will cost the same and the travel agent can help you with other aspects of your trip like ferry or airplane tickets, hotel in Athens and any snafus that occasionally happen in the islands (missed or canceled flights, ferries or lost bookings). Not to mention they are a valuable resource that can answer your questions and help you create the itinerary and find the hotel that is best suited to you.

For hostels and very cheap accommodation see www.greecetravel.com/youth-hostels

How to Get to and from Kos

There are ferries from Piraeus that leave daily usually in the afternoon. The islands on the same route as Kos are Patmos, Leros, Kalymnos and Rhodes. These islands can be reached daily from Kos. There are occasionally boats to Syros and to Samos and Thessaloniki. There are daily boats to Bodrun in Turkey leaving at 8:30 each morning and returning at 4 in the afternoon. You can get info at one of the local agencies in the port. In the summer you can take the hydrofoil to Rhodes, Samos, Ikaria and Fourni. There are excursion boats which go to various beaches on the island as well as to the islands of Kalymnos, Pserimos, Plati, Nisyros and Giali. There are three flights a day between Athens and Kos. You can take a taxi to the airport or the Olympic Airways bus leaves the Kos office two hours before the flight.

General Info

There are car, moped, motorbike and bicycle rental places everywhere. You need a valid license from your home country to rent everything but a bicycle. Be careful on mopeds and if you are in a car watch out for mopeds. There are lots of injuries of tourists every year and even a few fatalities. Don't drive drunk if you can help it. There are taxi cabs available in town and from your hotel. Some hotels have shuttle buses. There is also a pretty good local bus system which will enable you to get pretty much anywhere you want to go on the island.

Like any island with tourists there are internet cafes and computer centers where you can receive and send e-mail and even use the web to get information on this island or the next. The Del Mare Internet Cafe is at 4 Megalou Alexandrou and the Status is at 55 Navarinou.
Hotels charge a lot for calls, especially overseas so use the OTE at Vyronos 6.
There are plenty of ATM machines, two Laundromats, a hospital and a tourist information office at Vassileos Georgiou. Lots of shops and there should be nothing you can't find including pampers, baby wipes and even Pringles.

Fantasy Travel offers Kos in their section on island hopping though not in combination with other islands. Most likely you can work with them to visit Kos and Rhodes since the two islands have daily connections. See www.fantasytravelofgreece.com

More Greece Sites

Matt Barrett's Greece Travel Guide
www.greecetravel.com

A Greek Island Synopsis
www.greektravel.com/greekislands

Athens Survival Guide
www.athensguide.com

Hotels of Greece
www.hotelsofgreece.com

Greece to Turkey Guide: www.greeceturkeyguide.com
History of Greece: www.ahistoryofgreece.com
George the Famous Taxi Driver: www.greecetravel.com/taxi