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Kos, Greece |
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Introduction: Kos- Island of Hippocrates
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Industrial-strength tourism began during the late 1970s, with the first mega-hotels set back from the turquoise sea. Within a decade Kos was a firm favourite with growing numbers of northern Europeans (especially Dutch and British), served by an ever-increasing number of bars, mediocre tavernas and trinket shops, though the island was large enough to absorb the traffic fairly gracefully. The hotels were pretty much monopolised by large tour companies, such that independent travellers found it almost impossible to get a room in summer for love or money. Everything seemed to be going swimmingly for the Koans (Kooi in Greek, or more disparagingly in their Kalymnian neighbours’ view, Kotes – which also means chickens) until, a few years after the millennium, a perfect storm devastated tourism here. The islanders committed themselves heavily to the all-inclusive model; independent tavernas, mostly the mediocre ones but also some good establishments, withered away and died. Then several major tour companies mounted an unofficial boycott of the island – either by dropping hotels outright or telling travellers who requested Kos that it was “full” on the desired dates, and sending customers elsewhere. Needless to say the hotels in question were not booked out, but increasingly empty, and locals who relied upon tourism for a living were desperate for answers and a solution. And finally – on top of all this – came the 2008 crash. Kos was not the first island targetted in this way by large tour companies for a variety of reasons. Tour companies may tire of negotiating prices with the hotels every year, so a boycottt shows hotel owners who has the whip-hand and how dependent they are on overseas companies, and after a year of desperately scrounging for independent overseas and/or Greek bookings they are usually ready to agree to more favorable terms for the tour companies. A year “off” can also cause mass bankruptcies and overseas companies then buy coveted hotels from the banks for a song. Or perhaps a tour operator decides to maximize profits by steering customers towards places – Tunisia, Turkey, Thailand – where they pay less for hotels. People who are just looking for sea and sun will be happy anywhere that has a beach and a fast-food joint nearby, but this is rather shabby treatment for clients who had their heart set on going to Greece. All this was bad news for the people of Kos, who built comfortable hotels with the expectation that they would stay full forever, but are now confronted by excess capacity. The stop-gap measure, especially at all-inclusive outfits, has been to accept just about any clientele at depressed prices – in particular Russians, who are considered rough trade and not popular locally. But it’s good news for the traveler who wants to enjoy a scenic Greek island during high season, as it’s currently a buyer’s market for some quality hotels (on B&B or half-board basis). Maybe this is a second chance for Kos, and indeed 2010 was reportedly a better-than-average year here, in contrast to most of Greece. Because of Kos’ association with Hippocrates and the birth of modern medicine (read on), the island is a popular venue for medical conventions, often off-season, and all multi-star hotels have ample conference facilities. |
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History of Kos | |
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The City of Kos | |
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The Castle of the Knights of Saint John (Tues–Sun 8am–6pm, shorter hours winter) with its double fortification dominates the harbor. The castle is linked by a bridge over its former moat (now Finikon Avenue) to the square where the so-called, very decrepit Plane Tree of Hippocrates stands. In legend the great healer taught under its boughs, though in fact this is unlikely as the tree is only about 700 years old. Flanking the plaza is the Loggia Mosque, from 1786; as at the contemporary Defterdar Mosque on Platía Eleftherías, rent from the shops on its ground floor goes to the vakuf or local Islamic benevolent foundation. Neither of these mosques is used much for worship by local Muslims, though the minaretless Atik Mosque in the Ottoman bazaar still functions normally. Just south of the harbour lies the ancient agora (always open), excavated after the 1933 quake: no compelling sights other than foundations of a Hellenistic Aphrodite temple and re-erected Roman columns from a stoa, but a pleasant wander nonetheless. The other, more extensive archeological zone lies well inland beyond the Ottoman bazaar, featuring the Xystos or colonnade of a covered running track, and – viewable from a slight distance – mosaics of a boar hunt, gladiators and the nymph Europa. There are more floor mosaics – of a tiger, and assorted beasts attacking a goat and an antelope – in the Casa Romana (Tues–Sat 8am–7.30pm, Sun 1.30–7.30pm, Mon closed), a 3d-century AD Roman villa across the street, which finally re-opened in 2010 after a lengthy refit. Also refurbished recently was the contemporaneous Roman odeion adjacent – its undercroft now houses a well-done mini-museum (daily April–Oct 8am–8pm) on odeia in general, and this one in particular. The main, Italian-built archeological museum (Tues–Sun 8am–2.30pm) is up on Platía Eleftherías, containing Hellenistic and Roman statuary, as well as two more fine mosaics. Just opposite, beyond the Defterdar Mosque, is the covered Italian market from 1934; lately its produce stalls have been exiled in favour of tourist stalls peddling honey and herbs – no bargains here – but it’s still an atmospheric spot to stock up on gifts. It doesn’t take much nous to work out that you’ll be ripped off at the few surviving cafés and restaurants facing Mandráki port; neither is the prevailing Euro-grub in the westerly district towards Lámbi much to write home about either. There are numerous, far better options inland or just back from the easterly beach along Vassiléos Georgíou. At Ambavris (supper only April–Oct), in the eponymous hamlet 500m south of the Casa Romana, go for their excellent-value pikilía (medley) of local dishes served in the courtyard of this lovely old house. An exception to the pattern in the western suburbs is Psaropoula at Avérof 17, the best spot for fish (year round). The island’s longest-running ouzerí is Pote tin Kyriaki (supper only, closed Sunday), hidden in the Ottoman old town at Pissándrou 9; there are starters like fennel pie and assorted sea food at very attractive prices, washed down by proprietress Stamatia’s potent tsípouro. A new entrant in the ouzerí sweepstakes is Fanos at Hálkonos 3, with more of a mainland flair in dishes such as spetzofáï (sausage and pepper stew) or khtipití (fermented cheese dip). For a bit more outlay, try Stadium at Vassiléos Georgíou 26, a chic generic-Mediterrean bistro working out of an old Italian villa (all year, indoor/outdoor seating), or another see-and-be-seen venue, H2O, at no. 7 of the same street, with a fusion menu, minimalist decor and seating on a deck over the water. Products of the local winery, Hatziemmanouil, are well worth trying, especially their red labels. For light refreshment, Café Aenaos at the base of the Defterdar Mosque is a great people-watching spot, and brews kafé sti hóvoli (traditional Greek coffee made on hot sand). Right opposite Hippocrates’ plane tree, the Law Court Café huddles under Art Deco arches, doing coffees and cold drinks at very fair prices for the location. Besides the mega-dance-venue Fashion Club on the west side of Mandráki, known for its light shows, nightlife in Kos city clusters in two areas. The “Pub Lanes” of Haluvaziá, especially Nafklírou, have a fairly forgettable selection of annually changing barákia with a largely Dutch clientele; the most durable, interesting and Greek club here is Hamam at the east end of things, installed in an old Turkish bath. Another, Greek-preferred nucleus of night- (and day-) life is Aktí Zouroúdi behind Lámbi beach 2km north of town, where Ammos by Heaven has two bars (1 poolside, 1 on the sand), tropical decor and chilled playlist, or Mylos further out, housed in an old mill, with a beach-café role by day and either live or DJd events after dark, until dawn. For the more sedately inclined, there’s an excellent outdoor cinema (May–Sept), the Orfevs, on Fenarétis just in from Vassiléos Georgíou; during the cooler months screenings move to the indoor Orfevs on Platía Eleftherías. As everywhere in Greece, films are shown in the original language (usually English) with Greek subtitles. Both play host to the annual, early September International Health Film Festival (www.healthfilmfestival.gr), established in 2009, with a range of films of every length on themes including therapy, traditional healing, the disabled, and so forth. The Ippokrateia Cultural Festival is held yearly from late July to late August, featuring music and dances events in the Knights’ castle, the odeion and the summer cinema. | |
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Around Town The ruins of the Asklepion (summer 8am–6pm, winter 8.30am–2.30pm; closed Mon all year) lie 4km southwest of town on a series of terraces overlooking Kos and the Turkish coast. Hippocrates was the first healer adopting a rational approach to diagnosis, and the first – as witness his treatise Airs, Waters and Places – to lay stress on the importance of environment in therapy. In its day – which ended in 554 AD – the Asklepion was as much spa and teaching facility as religious sanctuary, and the site chosen had ample springs (which ran above ground until recently – you can still see fountain-niches and clay piping). The three terraces, connected by broad stairways, feature a Doric Temple of Asklepios on the top level, and a Roman Corinthian temple partly rebuilt by nationalistically minded Italian archeologists, but don’t get your hopes pitched too high – little else stands much above ground level, as the crusading Knights thoroughly scoured the site for ready-cut masonry. The Asklepion is easy to reach by bicycle, fake train or (in cooler weather) on foot, passing through the partly ethnic-Turkish village of Platáni (aka Kermedés) with its active mosque and cluster of Anatolian-style tavernas at the central junction, of which Arap is the most consistent, famous and open much of the year. Opposite, superb ice cream is served at Paradosi. There were once nearly 3000 island Turks living here and in Kos town, but after the successive Cyprus crises of 1963–74 numbers dropped to under 1000. Between Platáni and town are the adjacent Muslim and Jewish cemeteries. The island’s 120 Jews were deported to their deaths at Auschwitz during summer 1944, and the only other trace of the long-running Jewish community is their wonderful Italian-era synagogue on Diákou near the “Pub Lanes”. Besides Lámbi beach, more sand stretches east, then south, of the city in the area known somewhat imprecisely as Psalídi. Much of it is merely functional or monopolized by the resort hotels which concentrate here; good, meaty beaches with minimal wind scourging and easy public access only begin once past the Oceanis complx, up to the Ágios Fokás military watchpoint. Just past a final cluster of hotels at Ágios Fokás is the dirt-track turnoff for the seaside hot springs of Bros Thermá, one of the most popular destinations on Kos, especially at dusk or on moonlit evenings. Scalding water flows from the base of cliffs into a 4-foot-deep pool delimited by a ring of boulders which allows it to mix with seawater to a pleasant temperature. There have been recurring rumors, however, of the place being developed as a spa with regimentation and admission fee, so enjoy it au naturel while you can. |
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Around the Island of Kos | |
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Mt Díkeos Villages Forested, scenic Mt Díkeos, the ancient Oromedon looming west of town, relieves Kos from unrelenting flatness and supports the half-dozen Asfendioú villages, all now largely deserted but excellent examples of whitewashed traditional housing. Parish priest Father Kyriakos, at the Génnisi Theotókou church in Lagoúdi with its brilliant neo-Byzantine frescoes, claims that the mountain takes is modern name (“just, fair”) from its waters flowing usefully northwest towards the agricultural plain rather than pointlessly south into the sea. Ziá is the most touristed settlement, thanks to half a dozen coaches daily calling in for “sunset tours” (though the views from most of the Asfendioú region are spectacular). This has had a predictable effect on quality at the surviving tavernas (several have shut) but Oromedon can still be highly recommended, likewise the little secluded café Neromylos, converted from the last working watermill here – by the 1960s most of the water had been channelled down to fields and water-mains in the flatlands. Ziá also marks the start of the hike up to 846-metre Khristós peak with its pillbox chapel (August 6 festival) and 360° views over Turkey and the Dodecanese; allow 3 hours round trip, and best do this in spring or fall when temperatures are mild and the air clear. Nearby Evangelístria and Asómatos hamlets, the latter with a lovely church, have proven popular with second-home hunters but have no reliable tourist facilities. West of Lagoúdi, a side road leads up to Byzantine Paleó Pýli with its castle and medieval churches, of which the lowest one, Arhángelos, also has the most vivid frescoes. Modern Pýli is by contrast a thriving, modern place and boasts, in its Pigí district, perhaps the best rural taverna on Kos, Palea Pigi, where you can sample local dishes like pikhtí (brawn) and krassotýri (cheese marinated in wine) in the shade of a giant Indian fig. Just below is a wonderful, popular cistern-spring with several lion-headed spouts. Kos-tal Resorts Besides Psalídi, Kos has plenty of attractive beaches on both its windier north and more protected south coasts. Most of them have some sort of water sports available, be it windsurfing, kayaking/canoeing, or jet-skiing (though I for one find it difficult to qualify the latter as a “sport”). Closest to town on the north coast is Tingáki, which has historically had a big British clientele. Just inland to the east is the excellent Ambeli taverna, with more than a nod to local recipes and an excellent winelist (as you’d expect from a place called “Vineyard”). There are great views across the straits to the Bodrum peninsula and the little Greek islet of Psérimos. Marmári, the next resort west, has a preponderance of all-inclusive hotels aimed in the past at Germans; between the two is the salt marsh of Alykí, which retains water well into summer. This used to be a major stopover for flamingoes from December to April, but they haven’t appeared in some years – chalk it up to global climate change. Mastihári, southwest of Marmári, also has its share of new monster hotels at the outskirts but despite that is probably your best bet if showing up without a room reservation in summer – it’s Kos’ second port, with several daily ferries to Kálymnos (keyed to arrival times of domestic flights from Athens), and still retains some character of a “real” town. Good affordable accommodation can be found at the south end of the ridge above the unusually broad beach. Just inland from the ferry jetty, Makis is unbeatable for fish, while at the south end of the beach strip, Traditional House bakes its own bread and serves own-grown veggies. From Marmári, roads lead south through Andimáhia – the largest inland village, next to the airport and near another Knights of St John castle sometimes used for summer concerts – to Kardámena, the island’s second-ranking, if rather downmarket, resort, famous for its Brit-pitched nightlife. Clubs, especially in these straitened times, come and go but here to stay apparently are the Downtown Club, a basement joint as good as its motto (“cheesy chart music”), the long-running Starlight Club at the outskirts, with theme nights and imported UK DJs, and The Rok, a beachside, 24-hour bar that’s a favorite fixture for watching the sunrise after a hard night’s clubbing. Don’t expect culinary distinction, or much comfort in lodging; Kardámena beach, however, is sandy and long. There are expensive excursion boats, leaving in the morning, for Níssyros island opposite; less publicised is the Nissyrians’ far cheaper shopping kaïki, which chugs away at mid-afternoon (though that means you intend to overnight on Níssyros). On a clear day Níssyros is also prominent on the horizon seen from the sequence of miraculously undeveloped beaches west of Andimáhia. My favorite is “Magic” (officially Polémi), with a full-service taverna uphill, a nudist zone (“Exotic”) on the east, and no jet-skis – which rather blight “Sunny” (Psilós Gremmós) and Langádes further along, although their sand and juniper-backed scenery is superior. “Paradise” (Bubble Beach), so named for volcanic gas-vents in the shallows, is oversubscribed and overrated, though “Kamila”/Camel just beyond is much less visited. Past these, an inconspicuous access road leads around a giant Club Med to the most romantically set of Kos’ three basilicas, Ágios Stéfanos – though recent years have seen some of its columns toppled and its famous mosaics covered in protective gravel. There’s good snorkelling – unusually for Kos – between the little beach below and swimmable-to Kastrí islet. Beyond sprawls Kamári, a resort hardest hit by the recent slump – plenty of abandoned building sites – and lacking much distinction other than excellent windsurfing opportunities. The Wild West The large village of Kéfalos, uphill from Kamári, dominates the far southwest of Kos. It’s kind of a nondescript place – the Knights couldn’t be bothered to build a proper castle to defend it – but the inevitable gateway to the wild terrain beyond. Just south are Panagía Palatianí, a strange Byzantine church built amidst the ruins of an ancient temple, and ancient Astypalaia, of which only a late Classical theatre with two rows of seats overlooking Kamári bay remains. A right fork in the paved onward road system leads to the rural chapel of Ágios Theológos, near a namesake taverna which ruthlessly exploits its monopoly and above a wave-bashed beach where boogie-boarding is practiced. The other branch of the paved road ends at Ágios Ioánnis Thymianós monastery, from where a dirt track heads off towards spectacular, sandy but unamenitied Hilandríou beach, tucked into a fold of precipitous Cape Kríkellos. Kos International Film festival: First week of September Kos International Health Film Festival Ippokratis is a 5 day festival for members of the International Health community, artists and the general audience to view, discuss and appreciate creative audiovisual works, on health and prevention. It is the only festival of its kind. The festival is a competition festival and will screen current production films on health issues, on human beings and on theme films from all over the world, which will compete for the prizes of the festival. The directors of the winning films will receive the Golden Ippokratis, the Silver Ippokratis and the Bronze Ippokratis respectfully. The films will be judged by international jury committees. There will be Special Tributes to health issues with well known feature films and documentaries by famous directors. For more information contact Lucia Rikaki at info@healthfilmfestival.gr or see the screening schedule for 2009 | |
Practical
Information for Travelers to Kos
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Getting to Kos Ferries from Piraeus to Kos leave daily in season, usually in the early evening, with consequent small-hours arrival. Islands on the same route may include Sýros, Náxos, Páros, Amorgós, Santoríni, Pátmos, Léros, Kálymnos and Rhodes, though usually you get “semi-direct” services that omit some or most of these. If at all possible, opt for Blue Star Ferries departures. In peak season, the same company has useful linking services once weekly to Thessaloníki (via Kálymnos, Sámos, Híos, Lésvos and Límnos). Sadly, the former useful hydrofoil service between Kos and Sámos via all intervening islands has been suspended; the only approximate substitute are the catamarans Dodecanese Pride and Dodecanese Express, as far as Pátmos and Lipsí/Agathonísi. You can find ferry schedules from Pireaus to Kos at www.athensguide.com/greek-island-ferry-schedules Excursion boats leave most mornings for the nearby islands of Níssyros, Psérimos, Platý and Kálymnos, though if you want to spend a full day on Psérimos you can only do this from Kálymnos. Most years there is usually a subsidized minor ferry route from Kos town to Níssyros and Tílos – much cheaper than either the excursion boats or the catamarans. For Bodrum in Turkey, there can be up to 3 or 4 daily (2 morning, 2 afternoon) departures, and the crossing is the least expensive of all the island-Anatolia routes thanks to modest port taxes – outside of peak season, 25 to 30 euro return is not an unusual fare. There are up to five flights daily between Athens and Kos in each direction, on both Olympic and Aegean, but the two are set to merge in autumn 2010, with a likely decreasing effect on frequencies. Kos gets swarms of charters from overseas between late April and late October, and in 2010 easyJet commenced several weekly flights from Manchester and Gatwick. Fantasy Travel offers Kos in their section on island hopping though not in combination with other islands. Most likely you can work with them to visit Kos and Rhodes since the two islands have daily connections. See www.fantasytravelofgreece.com Getting around Kos Especially in Kos town, car, scooter and (unusually) bicycle rental places abound. Along with Tríkala and Édessa, Kos is among the few cities in Greece that actively makes provision for cyclists, with a joined-up bike-path system extending from the far reaches of Psalídi to Tingáki, and for a few euros a day the flattest bits of the island are yours to pedal around. The accident rate for all motor vehicles – especially on the dangerous central trunk road – is off the charts, especially in August when particularly reckless Athenians show up, so drive defensively and NEVER drunk – police traps screen for this and fines are astronomical (even if you don’t get thrown in the slammer). Taxis are common but expensive – nearly 35 euros from the airport to Kos city, for example. There are several KTEL buses daily between the airport and town, but these are designed to dovetail with domestic, not overseas, flight arrivals. Besides KTEL departures to the remoter beach resorts (frequent) and hill villages (infrequent), there’s a very efficient municipal bus service with the initials DEAS, serving all points between Psalídi and Lámbi. Sailing in Kos Wildside Sailing offers day trips around the island as well as longer journey to Rhodes, Leros, Kalymnos, Symi and the other islands of the Dodecanese and also to Mykonos and Santorini and other islands in the Cyclades. See www.greecetravel.com/sailing/wildside Special! Windsurfing/Kite Surfing Sailboat Trip from Kos to Santorini! Click here for more informationWhere to Stay There are hotels of all categories in Kos town and its flanking resorts of Psalídi and Lámbi. Mastihári, Kardámena and Kamári offer more modest lodging on the whole. The major visitor dilemma on Kos is whether to stay in Kos town for superior dining and nightlife, going to the beach resorts by day, or to stay by the sand and hit the town by night. Here you can probably have it both ways by staying in a really nice hotel on a beach close to town for a very good rate. For a selection of hotels on the island, see www.hotelsofgreece.com where you can read hotel reviews and book them through agencies. I recommend booking with reliable travel agencies in Athens rather then directly with the hotels since it will cost the same, and the travel agent can help you with other aspects of your trip like ferry or airplane tickets, hotel in Athens and any snafus that occasionally happen (missed or canceled flights, ferries or lost bookings). Not to mention they are a valuable resource that can answer your questions and help you create the itinerary and find the hotel that is best suited to you. Marc Dubin first visited Greece in 1978, fell in love with it, and returned almost yearly until he began living much of the time on Samos in 1989. He has written for numerous travel publishers – notably Rough Guides and Insight Guides – and on a variety of topics ranging from renovating old Greek houses and Greek cuisine to back-country trekking and Greek music. Marc has also compiled two CDs for World Music Network, Rough Guide to Rebetika and Rough Guide to Greek Café. He is an accomplished photographer and most of the pictures accompanying the articles on greecetravel.com are his. (You can click on his photos above to see them full size.) To contact Marc with offers of writing jobs or praise you can e-mail him through matt@greecetravel.com | |
Hotels in Kos | |
| Here are some hotels in Kos that you can book directly through booking.com if you don't think you will need a travel agency. If you click on the name of the hotel you can get more information, photos and book it now. You may notice that a 4 and 5 star hotel in Kos will cost the same as a 2 star hotel in Mykonos or Santorini. | |
Grecotel Kos Imperial Thalasso
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Helona Resort
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Lakitira Suites
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Kipriotis Hippocrates Hotel
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Alexandra Hotel
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Iberostar Panorama Family
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Triton Hotel
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Gaia Garden
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Leonidas Hotel & Studios
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You can find more hotels in Kos with, photos, descriptions and maps at Booking.com or Hotelsofgreece.com | |
More Greece Information
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Matt
Barrett's Greece Travel Guide
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