Greece Travel Guide logo

Greece Travel Guide


Greek Island Guide


Hotels of Greece



Greece Travel: Traveler's Reviews
Lesvos: More Than Just Another GreekIsland

Hello Matt,

Due to your positive response I went with a tiny backpack to Lesvos on my own and had a wonderful time.

I would like to say how friendly and helpful John was at Porto Lesvos Hotel in Mytilene.  It is a really excellent budget option, central but quiet and so clean.  The bus service is good enough to get around the island but you would be disappointed to see the new road being built to Sigri.  However while excavating the road widening they came across more petrified trees and have painted them in white plaster so look out for them roadside as you travel there!!  I managed to skinny dip once but there are quite a few camper vans etc so difficult to find a secluded spot in high season.  I walked by dirt road to the next bay south from Skala Eressou, there is a fig and goat farm and lots of barbed wire, locked gates etc but you can pick your way down to the small pebble bay and there was nobody in sight though I could hear the sound of Skala Eressou around the headland!

But the best bit of the whole trip was the public bathing concrete area with the metal steps at Mytilene - great water and such friendly people - just sit on a concrete block and somebody starts a conversation.  I wouldn't have found it but for your great website and people I chatted to there met me for an evening at Fanari (best kept a secret!).

Anyway -  thanks again for all your hard work putting together such a great website - I'm back teaching in Istanbul

so if you ever want a dip in the Bosphorus while watching the tankers go by let me know!!




My wife and I just returned from our fourth trip to Lesvos in the past five years. We were there this time to celebrate our fifth wedding anniversary. We got married in Kalloni on July 1. I am not Greek in any way shape or form but my wife is 100% Greek. Her mother was born in Kalloni and still owns the home that she was born in around 1940. It’s great to have a place to stay for free when we travel to Lesvos. On one our trips we also spent a week in Crete.

My wife, Maria was born in the US and we live in Tacoma Washington. She has been an avid follower of your travel advice for years and I am now also. We stayed at the Sunrise Hotel in Molyvos on this trip for one day, and I wrote in their guest book “this is the best hotel I’ve ever stayed at”. I’m 51 years old and really fell in love with the hotel. On our next trip approximately 2 years from now we are going to stay in Molyvos at the Sunrise for a full week.

This trip was amazing like they all have been, but at the same time we were saddened by how much things have slowed down from five years ago. We truly hope the Greek economy can make a comeback. We spent as much money as we could and will continue to do so every two years. We have relatives and some property in addition to the house so we feel it’s important to get there as often as possible.

I’m writing this letter to thank you for all of your great travel advice. Your information always makes a great trip even better. Who knows, maybe someday we can meet you in Lesvos and share a drink of the best Ouzo in the world.

The attached picture is us enjoying Loukoumades hanging on the balcony in midair in Molyvos.


David and Maria

PS-We discovered the joy of the Postagram app on this trip. Look it up in iTunes, you will LOVE it!

Mr Barrett
I wanna thank you for your web pages on Lesvos Island and Greece.
Your love of this contry and his poeple is clear.
I have great pleasure in surfing on them.
I'm sure you are "Un honnête homme" a man that Diogene was looking for with his lamp.
I'll surely be there in a near future.


Guy Gobeil

I have just returned from Lesvos to my hometown, Istanbul, after a wonderful week with my son and wife.

As you have recommended we stayed 4 days in Vatera Beach and 4 days in Molivos.

Your site helped us in every respect and had a great contribution to our well remembered holiday.

Thank you very very much.

If you have such insights regarding other Greek islands, I would love to get an access to them for our future journeys.



Hi Matt

This is not a question but a thank-you for the exemplary website.

We have just been to Lesvos and have bought a house there - and we used your website to do a ton of research.  The whole family are long-time Hellenophiles having bought a house in Cyprus in 1986, and having served in the army there for over eight years.

Regardless of the problems that Greece faces, we could not think of a better place to have a place in the sun with some of the warmest, friendliest and most hospitable people we know.  And the Aegean, fresh fish, ouzu and olive groves...?  What's not to like?

Efharisto again.

Best regards,


Hi Matt,

My husband and I just returned from a wonderful three week vacation to Lesvos and Chios. Eressos Travel booked all of our hotels, a one day Saronic Gulf cruise and all of our transfers between islands and hotels. We had a wonderful vacation. Not only was it completely problem-free but the taxi drivers even went beyond the call of duty. One man stopped the taxi, grabbed something from the side of the road and presented me with two types of natural herbs which grow in Lesvos. The aroma was fabulous. In Lesvos, we stayed at the Aeolian Village and the Sunrise. The Sunrise Hotel was my husband's favourite. Lesvos is a beautiful island. Chios was very impressive also. We stayed at the Benovias Apartments, Kyveli Apartments and Grecian Castle. I would give special mention of George and Joanna of the Benovias Apts. Their hospitality was overwhelming. On both islands, the food and wine was wonderful. Most importantly, we found the people noticeably more friendly and helpful on these islands than we found in the Cyclades last year. My very special thanks to Anastasia of Eressos Travel who made our vacation one we won't soon forget.

Karen and Shawn

Hello Matt

You helped me out last year with some questions about Lesvos

We got there eventualy and absolutely loved it in Molyvos in the end of April. staying at the Sea Horse, which Dimitri, Stergeos's son is now running and want to go again as soon as we have the money and can get time away from our busy office ( a small business is very tying and trying). The galley is now run by richard from Oxford U.K. and his Greek wife Dina, very good.
Anyway you superb website goes from strength to strength and I want to thank you for all the information you provide, where do you get the time to do it.
I want to visit everywhere you mention but i think I will run out of years first.

Thanks again
Carey Rowe

YEP!!.You can step in front of the class. It is beautifull in what you are doing. I am a Greek American. My Mother from Mytiline and my father from Kithera. My wife is from Mytiline, Lesvos and I have been to Greece Five times. SO, your stuff is bringing me memories, and learning what I didn't know before. Thank you for your web page and keep up the good work. Pgmsr


We just got back from a wonderful two weeks in Eressos. Doxa's place was fantastic and Lesvos was incredible. Thanks for helping out with all the info. I'm sure we will be back someday.

Best regards,

Bruce Lewis

Dear Mr.Barrett, We have returned from our holiday on Lesvos and I wanted to thank you for your wonderful website. We printed out all the info you posted and we had a great time! The island is wonderful and your tips are very very useful. We visited many of the restaurants listed (Eftalou, Medusa, Captains Table, Avlaki, Vafios), we liked Eftalou the most. I am of Ukrainian origin (salted or raw fish is a staple food in many regions there) and I am used to salted fish of any kind, but sardeles pastes were a revelation to me. They have become one of my top 5 favorite foods. Btw. Anatoli restaurant is longer in Eftalou, but at some other location, the former place is deserted. We were eager to visit it but, went to the Eftalou taverna for the fourth time... The places we liked the most were the baths in Eftalou, we went there almost everyday (7 days out of 10), Molyvos and Skala Kalloni. The Petrified Forest was quiet interesting too, and the beach in Skala Eressos was wonderfully sandy. The only thing I regret is that we booked a hotel in Anaxos. The beach was one of the best we saw (after Skala Erressos) but the surroundings (very very small surroundings of 15 restaurants and many apartment houses) were really "touristy", NO sardeles pastes anywhere. But there are some good places for some good greek meaty meals and if you order items like grilled sardines or gavros you cannot go wrong. Well, I admit that I am a food tourist :-) We hope to visit Lesvos again in some time, since was one of the greatest holidays we have had. When we were looking for a place to go this summer, we found your website and it really made an impression on us and also it was a great inspiration! Thank you very much!!!! Regards, Lidia + Sergey

Just a quick e-mail to say that I have just returned from 1 week in Lesvos and
found your guide extremely useful. I would agree with you that Lesvos is a
fantastic island and will be visiting again before too long. Keep up the good
work with your web page!


Paul Edwards





Hi Matt,

My son and I had a fabulous trip to Greece ( Rhodes and then ferry to Lesvos where we stayed for ten days). We loved Rhodes, wishes the ferry was more often to Sigri than only once a week and simply loved Lesvos.

We stayed in Sigri for three days –and had a great time.  Most tourists were gone so we had the nice beach to ourselves and walked and walked and explored. We loved the museum and the petrified trees. We ate each night at the Golden Key with Pablo and his folks – excellent food and lovely people.  We hated The Australian restaurant – they were rude, impatient, bad service and even worse food.  Don’t recommend that one in Sigri!

We then went to Eressos – stayed with Patrick and Debbie whom we loved to bits!  Had a marvelous time there – cycling, swimming, walking, hiking, feeding the turtles, and I even painted a watercolour of pomegranates, quinces and grapes for Debbie.    Patrick and Debbie were so nice and we so loved our spacious apartment at Heliotopos that we cancelled our trip to Petra and stayed on.  Moved to Mytilini for our last couple of days.   Great vibrant noisy town, loved the public beach because only a few locals were using it and the entrance is waived after mid September  - saw all the sights and enjoyed some nice food on the waterfront.    We took the hour and a half boat trip from Mytilini to Ayvalik on the Sunday so that we could visit the ancient Greco Roman ruins of Pergamon.    Fantastic!!  Can’t describe how much we enjoyed that day.  We found a fantastic taxi driver by the name of Haran Giris who took us to Pergamon (65 kms), stayed with us the entire day – and drove us to all three of the major parts of Pergamon archaeological sites (there are three and you must have transport).  Drove us safely back to the boat after a little bit of a tour of Ayvalik and charged us the small sum of  100 euros for the entire day!   Pretty decent chap and a great driver.

Left Mytilini for Athens on the Tuesday and for the first time in my four trips to Crete over the years – I GOT TO SEE ATHENS!!   Yippee!  I adored it and had read all your notes.  We had a splendid time   - spent hours on the acropolis and all the other sights we crammed in.   George the Famous taxi driver sent one of his excellent chaps to meet us at the airport and also saw that we got back to the airport for our trip to Cairo the following day.  I have thanked him by email.   You certainly were NOT wrong about George and his business – most professional and excellent.

Thanks for everything – thanks for your excellent notes, advice, warnings, wisdom and the rest.  I confer upon you the  honour of the  GOLDEN SWORD OF PERGAMON/ATHENS/MYLINI/LESVOS/SIGRI -  arise Sir Matt!!

Best wishes,


Hi Matt, after reading your story about Lesvos Greece my husband and me went there for a week last month.

We stayed at the Hotel Aphrodite on Vatera Beach, and had a great time. The food is fantastic, John, Maria, George and Georgina (the owners) were great, the service not from this world, very clean studio's.

We can recommend this hotel to everybody.

Thanks for your tip, keep writing.

Freddie and Anke Wiggins
Las Vegas, USA


I am the Fulbright Professor (environmental science) who arrived in Lesvos, family in tow during a cold January. You web site has been an invaluable aid to our trip. Our non-Greek Idaho kids (age 16 and 13) enrolled in Mytilini schools and had a blast. Our kids (who did not speak Greek when they came) were treated like rock stars by the locals. We took an apartment in Lazareto off the busy Gera road into town, so the port (and schools) would be a stroll and not a parking nightmare. This was a wonderful non-sterile experience of Greek life. Since I lectured at 6 Greek universities, we have had many gypsy experiences all over Greece with many wonderful discoveries off the tourist path. I will keep these secret because I have learned that if it is mentioned in a guide book or website, it is quick to be over-run. We have tried to give your recommended travel agents (mostly Dolphin-Hellas) some business as a way of thanking you. Aliki was a great help in organizing a visit for our friend in a wheelchair – we did succeed in getting our friend up the stairs of the Grand Meteora monastery and one of the kind monks gave her a ride down in the ”bucket”. We have many friends around Greece now and plan is to devise a way to visit again and again (we just got our short term residencies, following a 4 month process). Sadly the Greece of your youth is not the Greece of today and the many rapid changes threaten the Greek environment and culture. Once I was more grounded in the local culture and issues, my lectures were sharper and more challenging of the Greek students, calling on them to become the heroes of this modern transformation – to change their world by picking up a piece of trash, rather than simply talking about Greece’s problems in yet another café session. I read with interest the Athens News “Matt Barrett for Mayor” posting; you have my vote.

We leave Mytilini for Athens this Saturday with joy from the experience and sadness for the parting from many friends. I wanted to thank you for the wonderful stories and insights to Greece your web site has given us. If we ever cross paths, dinner is on us

Best regards,

Greg M

University of Idaho


Thanks for all the information you have posted. A NATO conference took me in late April to Thessaloniki for 5 nights, my wife accompanied me, and we decided to pick out an island to visit for 4 more nights, followed by 2 nights in Athens.

We chose Molivos, Lesvos, and stayed at the Sea Horse Hotel. Obviously, the town and island are beautiful - the most beautiful place we have ever seen. However, it was the people of Molivos that made the visit very special.

Dimitris, his family, and his staff at the Sea Horse are the best. Their hospitality and helpfulness was wonderful. The price simply cannot be beat - a million dollar setting for 41 euros a night. Truly, we hardly needed to leave the hotel area and town, and would have very happy for 4 days. Special kudos also to two local shop owners - Nikos Dimou of "The Art" and Theofilis Mantzoros, a jewelry designer at "Myth in Greece." The warmth of these folks is unbeatable - exchanging Euros with them for items of more lasting value to us was a pleasure. Essentially, every place we ate was owned or operated by gracious, friendly people. We had a very pleasant rental car experience via Dimitris (arranged with Pink Panther Rental in Molivos), and toured the north and southwest parts of the island in a Atos at 30 Euros per day.

We will return for a much longer visit, and bring friends, as soon as possible.

Also, the Attalos in Athens was exactly as you described. We enjoyed walking the Plaka and visited the Acropolis on the way out of Greece.

On a personal note - my wife is a cancer patient. She absolutely loved Molivos and the Sea Horse. The information you have taken time to write and organize made our trip more likely and pleasant than otherwise would have been possible. Indeed, I may not have made the trip without the confidence I gained by reading your guides. Now, we have special visit to remember and a place to which we will return -hopefully many times.

I want you to know that your love of Greece and Lesvos, and the effort you put into your guides, influenced our lives in a meaningful way for which we are especially grateful and appreciative. I am sure many others benefit similarly. What you do matters - keep it up.


I wanted to thank you for your wonderful Greece site! Because of your
website, we were able to plan a vacation that was tailor made to suit us.
We wanted to find a low key, non touristy place that's explorable and you
did not steer us wrong. Lesvos was awesome!

We had the best time. We stayed at Vatera Beach Hotel which was perfect.
Great food at the hotel as well as next door at the local restaurant. We
could wander down the beach a little east and strip naked and swim(luckily,
you don't know me, so you don't have to visualize). We also went to the
rocky beach which was nice and secluded like a lost world.

Our favorite place was Skala Polichnitos where the view is sweet and the
sardines and wild shrimp are plentiful. We also enjoyed Plomari and the
crazy death defying drive over Mt. Olympos(o.k. i'm slightly exaggerating)
to get there. That day the sea was so rough, but we had a blast bobbing
in the eratic waves. Everyone seemed to be laughing
hysterically as the waves seemed to regurgitate its bathers onto shore. It
was crazy but fun. Molyvos was also a nice place to visit with all the
harbor activity and fantastic sunset watching. It was a little difficult
getting to the snorkeling spots, though. You'll want to tell people to wear
shoes with good tread on the bottom when they're climbing that dry grass on
the hills which lead to the private snorkeling spots. i seriously almost
wiped out and bashed my head in, not that i blame you or anything(just a
little input). we had a nice swim next to the baths at Eftalou to recover
which relaxed me after I almost died. oh yeah, the baths at Polichnitos are
pretty neat and we enjoyed hanging out at the bath ruins after we healed
ourselves in the hot mineral soup. Our last stop before heading home was
Agiassos. It was really funny driving through the town b/c we thought we
were driving on path for pedestrians only. The town is really cute and the
church gives off a mystical feel. I didn't really see much talent in the
craft work at the market but maybe I didn't look hard enough or go to the
right places. Also, what's with those wierd cookies that everyone sells? I
felt bad b/c we didn't buy anything. It seems like these people wait all
day for a tourist to buy something from their shops. One special treat
about going to Agiassos was stopping in Karini where we really felt like we
were in some rain forest wonderland. The had awesome rice pudding and the
best baklava I ever had, packed with so many almonds. I can't believe how
damn good it was.

I can't believe how good ALL the food was on Lesvos. I was dreaming about
it for weeks after we returned home. I have never enjoyed sardines, yet, I
now yearn for them. The spanikopida(sp) also has me salvating whenever I
think of it. I simply have to make myself stop thinking of the food or I
will go crazy. In closing, I must ask this question that had me wondering
throughout my vacation. What's with the sardeles pastes? You mention them
throughout the Lesvos portion of your website, yet we didn't see them
anywhere nor do we completely understand what they are or if we should be
upset that we missed them. (: Thank you again and again and again and
again. We will go back soon as it is one of our favorite places in the
world, now. Did I forget to say, Thank you?

Take care.....Barbara

Dear Mr. Matt Barret,

we would like to thank you for the useful information about Lesvos. We have
been there last August and we really enjoyed our stay on the island. To be
sincere we found the accomodation and many other things thanks to Eressos
travel. Amalia, the person who is in charge for the incoming on Lesvos, she
has been wonderful and extremely helpful. She is a very nice person too.
We found Chios even more interesting than Lesvos.
Thank you again to you and to
Eressos travel

Tamara and Martin (Rome)

Hi Matt,

Really.. your site contributed more to our stay in Lesvos than all my
relatives combined..!! ( I am of Lesvian origin, from both parents but
have lived in Canada for 25 yrs )
Thank you so much for this great source of information, humour,
entertainment, arranged so accessibly... !!
I 've been coming to Lesvos almost every year but hot baths were a
mystery until  your introduction.. ( the one at Yera should be co-ed I
agree.. )

We have been drinking copious quantities of Methymnaios wine which
truly is superb.. and even visited Xidera and the winery for an
introduction given by the young owner himself.. ( wonderful guy with
impressive language skills albeit a bit.. intense ! ).
The people of xidera were wonderful as you described although I found
myself wondering what it would take to make them smile.. ( this is not
a put down.. I find in N. America people smile too much.. and falsely
so.. desperately concerned that not smiling would cause atrocities to
errupt..! )

Thanks again..

Dimitri Vouliouris


This is just a note to say thanks for your great Web site, and your recommendations regarding Lesvos.

This was our 2nd trip to Greece. We spent 2-weeks, with 9 days in Lesvos. We enjoyed staying at the Blue Sea in Mytilini our first night. We were pleasantly surprised when they allowed us to check in at 6:30 AM when we got off the ferry. You were right, the walk through the market in Mytitlini is at least as interesting as any museum. We took some great pictures of the fish, the produce, and the streets and people. We rented a car from Best, and received excellent service from Yannis.

We spent the next 8 nights at the Captain’s View in Molyvos. We enjoyed it so much. Melinda and her family made us feel right at home. During our visit, we felt like they made us their friends. The Captain’s View was very comfortable for the two of us, and we highly recommend it for anyone who wants a quiet place, with a great view of the sea and the harbor. We also highly recommend the Captain’s Table. The food was perfect every time, and again Melinda and Theo made us feel like part of the family.

Although much of Lesvos was closing down for the season, the weather was good, and we enjoyed having the beaches to ourselves. We would go back in October again, and we would definitely stay at the Captain’s View in Molyvos.

George provided John as our taxi driver in Athens. Again, having George take care of all our transfers made the vacation stress free.

In Athens we visited the Byzantium in the Plaka and bought a nice piece of jewelry. Thanks for the recommendation.

We took lots of pictures. I’m sure you have plenty, but if you are interested we would be glad to email some of the best to you.



Mr. Barrett,
First of all, Happy New Year!
This past September, I accompanied my aunt and her 2 friends on their second trip to Greece.  The way they spoke, I felt like you were on our trip as well.  The Gospel According to Matt Barrett was our guide, and what good news it was filled with.
Above all, thank you for the recommendation of O ERMES in Mytilini.  Kevali and Ignatius were wonderful.  For our last meal, they ordered lamb especially for us and let us sign their book that goes back to the opening of the restaurant.  They don't do that for everyone.
I'm not sure when I will be able to get back to Lesvos, but after the first trip, I don't want it to be my last.
Thank you for your help in this wonderful experience.

Andy Kirtland

Dear Matt,

I visited Lesvos for the first time this summer with my wife and we
had a wonderful time. Your website was really useful and I carried a
bunch of pages around the island at all times. After recovering from
the trauma of being on a British package tour, we quickly relaxed
into the way of life in Lesvos and had the blues in a big way when it
was time to return to reality.

We stayed at Skala Kalloni and I'm afraid that I
have to take issue with the bad press you give it on your site! The
port may not have the architecture of other towns but it is quite
relaxed and discreet, especially if you visit the beach to the right
of the square instead of the more cramped, noisy area to the left.
The water is also clearer on this side, although the lack of hard
substrata makes it less interesting than other places for snorkling.
The water was also warmer and more salty than in either Molyvos or
Skala Eressos, probably due to the semi-enclosed nature of the bay
There was a really cute, tame pelican who used to jump onto the seat
next to the fishermen. I don't know its name but I have some nice
pictures which I could scan in and send if you would like to add them
to your site.

We didn't have our driving licences (an oversight that turned out
to be a blessing) and so took the bus or cycled during our stay. It
was too hot to do much in the first week, anyway. The buses were
punctual and cheap and the drivers handled the moutain roads

We cycled from Skala Kalloni through Parakila and on down the coast
until we reached a town I can't remember the name of (the road is
marked on your map). There is a taverna just by the water which was
like an oasis after 15 -16 miles of cycling in the sun, though the
weather was cooler by then.

We passed the mosque (I thought it was a watchtower!) and went down
for a look. I started to climb the steps but it was very cramped and
the sight of mouse/rat scurrying across the walls put paid to that

We were given a dish on 15th August which was a traditional meal
celebrated the night before. It consisted of a pastry mixture with
ham and peas added. Perhaps you know the name of it. We also hung out
in a Cafeneon in Kalloni called Tryphon, a couple of doors away from
the bookshop. The food was excellent and good value (meatballs and
veal were especially good). My wife, Mélisande, found being the only
woman around a bit strange at first but quickly grew to love the
place. The waiter is called Dimitris and we got along well with his
broken English and our, even more broken, Greek.

All in all in was a wonderful holiday and we are already planning
for next year, probably Easter, in Skala Polynichtos or Vatera.
The locals were very friendly and generous and your guide was a great
help. So thanks very much and perhaps see you around!

All the best,


To Matt Barrett.

Having just returned from a two week holiday on the island of Lesvos, I
thought I should congratulate you on your site - 'Lesvos. More Than Just
Another Greek Island'. I discovered the site about a month before I
travelled and as this was my first visit to Lesvos, I Ieft for the island
feeling well informed.

Lesvos is as beautiful as your site suggests and after looking at the site
again after my return I appreciate its content even more. I am sure to
return to Lesvos some time in the future, and to your site as well!

Well done once again.

From: Mark Styles

Hi Matt.

My name is J.B.Xavier. I'm a brasilian writer. I live in Saint Paul, Brazil, and I'm so gratefull about you site. I'm just writting a romance where de action is in Greece, more specifcly in Lesvos. Your site gave me a lot of importants informations for my knowledge of the island. Its looks like I was in there! Across your texts, I have visited all the villages, restaurants, beaches, roads, baths and others point wicht one I can compose the scenary of my book. Some day, who knows, it will be translated by the English...

Thank you for the help!


Hi Matt,

This is a quick thanks, just about four years late.

I frantically read your Lesvos pages almost the night before departing for
a two month trip to Turkey to teach English in May 2006. I got obsessed
with the idea that my wife and I might spend our honeymoon in Greece, but
thought it was probably too late to arrange such a thing.

When in Turkey, staying at the school in Adapazari (which turned out to be
a swindle), I couldn't contact Sappho travel at first, and desperately
emailed you for help. I don't even remember what you wrote back, but you
responded immediately, and it gave me hope. Soon after, Joanna and Wendy
from Sappho wrote me back, and the trip fell very nicely into place. They
were wonderful, unbelievably helpful.

Eressos was in many ways the high point of our trip. Among many fantastic
times, I'll mention only one: Being an oud player, I was delighted to meet
an elderly oud player named Nikos with whom we played music (in the square
at Winter Eressos) late into the night -- 8 hours, actually! I am proud to
have the tobacco stain he left on my oud! He's a representative of a
Pontic Greek musical tradition (which in Ottoman times used to link
Turkish and Greek cultures now separated by a border) that is in danger of
dying out.

In short, I never rely on any guide completely, but your webpage's
recommendations were all sound and led us to some unforgettable
adventures. So, much thanks.

I've been reading the Chania pages with great interest...

best wishes,

Michael K. 


Hi Matt,

My name is John, and 4 years ago, on my way back from teaching in Kuwait I visited Greece. Thanks to your website, I decided to fly over to Lesvos, rented a car (throught your site) and spent the best week of my life. The weather was perfect. I woke up every morning just going where the car wanted to go. I stopped at mountain lookouts snacking on Ouzo, cheese and local bread. There were fantastic little tavernas (sp?) with friendly owners. I often had to stop for sheep, but that just part of a wonderful experience.

I just called up your site again to go back in time. If it hadn't been for you, I probably would have been stuck in Athens - not a bad place, but no Lesvos. I found scenery, the petrified forest, super people, but above all a night of love in Eressos!!!

Being an international teacher, I have been able to travel most of our tiny globe. To be honest, my time on Lesvos was the greatest. Maybe it was the end of a long year of teaching, the great weather, the aimable folks, the novel food, the private lodgings, probably most of all, the beautiful Aria. God, I wished I had taken her invitation to stay.

Keep up the great site. I don't know if I'll ever get back to that magic island, but it always be in my heart.

John Davies

Hai, in spring I saw your informations about island Lesvos. I didn't know that this island even exist. But now in the end of september I can say that you are right that Lesvos is something special, because I visited it twice. Once in june with family for two weeks and in September only with housband. Lesvos and their people are soo charming, open hearts and the nature is amazing. I woud like to thank you for informations, who help me to organize trip with a car and motor bike all over the island.
We enyojed in delicious food, Ouzo, diferent beaces, oh I would like go back. I live in Slovenia, mountain aerea and winter is coming. So diferent from worm Lesvos.
Thanks again, maybe we'll meet you in one cafenions in Lesvos, who know? I apologize for my english, I hope you'll andestand anyway. Irena

Hi Matt

My name is Martin Byrne from Dublin in Ireland and I just want to tell you about the time myself and my wife had in Lesvos. I meant to email you before now but since we got back it's been frantic.

We went to the Island on 9th June and returned in a much more chilled out frame of mind on 24th June. We booked the flight to Athens through an Irish agency and everything else we booked through Amalia and Lena in
Eressos Travel. I must say I found them incredibly helpful and efficient. Right from our first email to them until we left the Island we could not fault their service.

We stayed pretty much put for the two weeks as we were exhausted from work and Fidelma had just completed and passed medical exams, so all we wanted was to chill out and do as little as possible. We stayed at the Heliotopos apartments and were greeted with a big smile a very clean and comfortable apartment and a big bowl of fruit, which was most welcome after the two and a half hour taxi drive from the airport. Our time at the apartment was most enjoyable: we read and slept and tried our best to communicate with the owner whose name I can't pronounce or spell, but we knew what each other was talking about...most of the time!!

The only thing I was a bit irked about was the fact that there were very few places that accepted credit cards. Mind you we got by. We took a day trip to Mylvos to use the cash machine there so were fine. That was a funny one actually, the bus ran out of diesel on the way back and we were stranded on a hill for about an hour as the driver sped off on the back of a motor bke with a 3 gallon drum under his arm.

We went on the tour through Sappho Travel, who were also very helpful. The only thing I found with them was they were a good bit more expensive on accomodation and car hire, and I got the impression they did not get on too well with eressos travel, but that's competition for you.

Sorry for the gap in time but since I started writing, there have been more exams and work has been frantic.
Any back to Lesvos. I must say that over all the standard of the Island is great and hopefully we will get back to it at some stage. We spent a day driving around which was really enjoyable and headed south to some hot springs, no I can't remember, I guess if I had finished this last July like I intended I would have remembered. The restaurants in Scala are really good and service is very efficient and friendly. The beach is faultless.

A funny story for you. One night we were in Scala for dinner and things were looking a little iffy weather-wise. We had just finished our dinner at around 10pm when suddenly the heavens opened. Then the whole village balcked out. We took shelter but decided we would get just as wet standing where we were so we decided we would make for the apartment which was 10 mins walk away. In the darkness we saw car lights coming towards us and they stopped beside us. Initially we couldn't see who it was because it was pitch black and raining really heavily. But it was the owner of the Heliotpos who had driven down to the village to look for us to give us a lift home. Now where would you get that eh?

A fantastic time has and a return visit is on the cards.


Martin Byrne

I don't know if this message will get to Matt or someone else but in the
event it is read by you Matt, I want to tell you that I enjoyed reading the
account of your visit to
Vatousa. My father was born there and I have
visited there three times, the last time was seven years ago. As a
matter-of-fact, my grandfather worked for years in the one of the cafés in
Vatousa, perhaps the one you wrote about. My uncle Christos is still active
in the local "goings on" in Vatousa. He resides mostly in Kolloni but still
has the house in Vatousa that he and my father Panayoites were born and
lived in.

Again, I enjoyed your writing very much and look forward to more.

Dear Matt,
Thank you for your assistance. It seems between myself, my husband in
Bosnia and Sappho Travel our e-mail systems were experiencing a little
spring fever or something of that nature:) Sappho was getting our e-mails
and responding, both my system and my husbands were saying our e-mails were
not going thru and we were not receiving the e-mails Jo and Joanna were

We did, however, get to Erossos and had a fabulous vacation. We stopped in
and met Jo and Joanna and they were delightful and extremely helpful. They
arranged transportation back to the airport and arranged for accommodations
in Athens. What a truly relaxing and enjoyable town. Everyone was so
friendly and wonderful. We ended up staying at the Mascot, because we did
not know Sappho had already made arrangements at the Erossos Pension, and
Costas was hospitable and entertaining to say the very least.

We met many of the locals and felt a warm welcome from the moment we
arrived. I felt a deep gratitude to the gentleman that runs the shop next
to the Blue Horizon, as the time grew near for my husband and I to part once
again, this gentleman saw something in my eyes and gave me a gift. He said
"it is for your worries" and was one of the beaded ropes I saw so many men
carry. This really meant a great deal to me and warmed my heart. I carry
it with me and relive every moment my husband and I shared on this lovely

Erossos is truly a remarkable place. I will happily recommend to friends
and family they too experience the splendor and beauty of Lesvos.

It was your website that first drew our attention and all the detailed
information you provide is an excellent tool for anyone traveling to Greece.

Thank you again for all your correspondence, please extend our appreciation
to Sappho Travel and our apologies for the mis-communication.
Take care,
Jeri L. Julian


We recently visited Lesvos after seeing your website and I would very much
like to get hold of a copy of your book "In search of Sardeles Pastes". I
live in England - could you tell me where I might be able to get a copy

Many thanks

Alison Edwards

Dear Matt,
Whilst searching the web for somewhere new to spend our summer holiday we happened upon you website.Lesvos was a place we hadn't even heard of let alone considered as a possible destination,but after reading your pages we were convinced this was the place for us.
We perused the brochures and eventually decided to spend a week at the Seahorse hotel in Molyvos.We downloaded your pages to use as a guide and arrived on the first of june.
Needless to say on arrival the island exceeded our already high expectations,everything was as beautiful as you had described and the hotel was perfect.
We hired scooters and using your guide as our "bible" we explored the island finding the excellent resturants and secluded beaches you mentioned.
We would both like to thank you immensly for not only persuading us to come to Lesvos in the first place but also for enhancing the all but too short time we spent on the island.
And now we are back home in England,filled with post holiday deppresion and counting the days untill we can return to your beautiful island.

Thanking you once again
Mick and Wendy Brooks.

Dear Matt,

Thanks so much for your recommendation of Skala Eressos - we just got back from 10 days there. It was beautiful, relaxing and quiet.

We rented a house from . A short walk and we were on the beach, but far enough away to avoid the beachfront noise at night.

Food was great. We ate mostly at the Dolphin or at Bennett's. The latter had the best Greek salad on the beach, in our opinion. We're Americans living in England, so our vacations usually involve running around looking at cathedrals, etc. This time we wanted a simple beach vacation - lots of water, sun, sand and relaxation, and we got it.

The Simple Greek for Travellers tape was also quite useful. I like to be able to speak at least a few words of the language of countries I travel to. If we go back to Greece, we'll go back to Lesvos. Thanks again for your recommendation.

Cheers, Chip Seiderer

Hi Matt, we have just returned from Lesvos having spent 10 fantastic days there. If you remember, I (Alan Paul, Umtata, South Africa) contacted you prior to our holiday for some info. We stayed at a beautiful home right on the beach, at St. Barbera's, OUtside of Plomari. We loved the food (except the raw sardines, uchy), The people were fantastic even though we only knew 2 words in Greek. We especially enjoyed the Ouzo, and drank our fair share. thanks for the tip on how to drink it slowly, that saved us from many a hangover. Gloria, my sister-in-law enjoyed Ouzo with Sprite, Much to the disgust of the Plomarians. She has called this new cocktail "Sprouzo". WE hired a Suzuki Jeep and drove to Skala Erossos, As per your reccommendation. It was fantastic. We then took the ferry from Plomari to Vatera beach, stopping a couple of times to snorkel in the crystal clear water. We also took a ferry from Mytelini to Avalik in Turkey. We were flung into a mad hustle and bustle of a busy flea market town. We thoroughly enjoyed our day, and returned each with a leather jacket and bags of other things. we caught the ferry back to Mytelini, and immediately drove along the northen side. we found a very reasonable appartment at Skala Sikeminia. This must be the most beautiful seaside village on the island. We had the most fantastic meal right next to the bobbing fishing boats. The next day we drove along the coastal road to Molyvos. On the way we found the most extraordinary thing, hot water was seeping into the sea. My wife, Evelyn burnt her foot stepping into the sea. we spent over an hour lolling in this hot sea. After a short visit to Molyvos and Petra, we had to return to Plomari. We were fortunate to spend our last evening at the annual Ouzo festival, where we ate and drank free ouzo whilst being entertained by the local traitional dancers. we were very sad to leave Lesvos and vowed to return. the weather was wonderful the whole time. we spent 3 dreadful days in Paris, the most unfriendly, expensive place in the world. Thanks again for your website. Alan, Evelyn, Steve and Gloria Paul
Aug 27 2004

Hi Matt... what can I say but thank you!...

What? .. you don't have a clue who I am? Of course not, but your site and subsequent Emails you exchanged with my girlfriend Annette helped provide us with what was my most memorable holiday yet.
The room we booked at the Sun Rise was marvelous ( and only 94 steps up *smile* ) the view from the room no less than stunning, the on site restaurant and service great... and thank god for Manolis behind the bar.

The village of Molyvos was again marvelous as was the "Captains Table" We were told my Melinda that you were on the island while we were there but as we didn't hire a car we couldn't find you to buy you a bottle of Ouzo ( thank god I now understand what bottles of Ouzo are... when you said in one page on line how many bottles you went thru one day... well........... )

The Church in Petra, and the fortress of Molivos were both beautiful ( more steps )

But just one question.... How on earth could you stand 20minutes in the mineral baths at Eftalou? I nearly.. not quiet but nearly managed to submerge but couldn't immagine spending more than moments in that water.

Thank you


Hi Matt,
We've just returned from a wonderful week in Lesvos.
Last September we 'Asked Jeeves' for some holidays in Greece, up came your name and we downloaded your Guide to Lesvos. We contacted Dolphin Hellas Travel Agency in Athens and a very helpful person called Uli gave us all the information and reassurance we needed to book a week in the 'Sun Rise Hotel' and, later on, a car for me, my wife and two kids. We booked the Flight in the UK as the prices were cheaper.
Where can I start?
The Hotel, we were told, was the best on the Island, Molyvos was the magical place you described, with food and drink cheap and of a high standard!.We ate in a different place each night. 'Chef's salad' and Greek Yoghurt with honey and nuts went down very well.
One of our favourite place's had to be 'Fournello's' in Petra opposite the Water Sports where my Kids spent most of the time being towed behind a Speed Boat in 'Ringoes' or on a 'Banana Boat'.
All the locals were friendly and seemed to love 'The Inglish'!
We even met the owner(?) of the Sea House Hotel who knew you very well!
Anyway, it's back to work on Monday with only our photos to look forward to and a fading sun tan.


Peter Long

P.s, You don't do a similar guide for Florida?

Dear Matt

Just wanted to say thank you for your website. We went to Lesvos at the end
of June/beginning of July, purely on the strength of your words!!! We found
a beautiful and welcoming country, as yet unspoilt. The people were genuine
and friendly and weren't just after your money! We stayed in Anaxos, an
amazing place which is mainly dedicated to tourism, but pleasantly so. I
usually hate seeing other English people abroad but it was fun and very
pleasurable. The Anaxos Hotel was just across the road from our appartments
and they were fantastic. It was a real home from home!!

I looked out for you but I know it's a big place!!

Thank you, once again. We can't wait to go back!

Kind regards
Georgina Horwood

Kalimera, Matt! (I presume).

If you're the author of the excellent pages on Molyvos, then my wife, Sarah,
and I would just like to thank you profusely for your informative,
entertaining and inspirational piece which, (along with an Oxford travel
agent with a booking to fill and some last-minute holiday-planners to
satisfy), was our major persuader to visit Lesvos - and have the best
holiday we've ever enjoyed! Efcharisto poli! [and if you're not the author,
could you please pass this on?]

Several English people we met referred to your article, too: one mature
couple even had a print-off with them (provided by their more cyber-skilled
son). All expressed their appreciation of the lively style and useful
information. (Actually, I wish we'd taken along hard copy, too - as we would
then have tried the Octopus taverna, over which we dithered a bit night
after night until we had no time left). Still, I did have the best pizza
(marinara, naturally!) I've ever had - and I've travelled and eaten
throughout Italy all my life - at the pizzeria next to the Café del Mar; the
base alone was out of this world!

Our particular tastes were beautifully catered for by every bit of the
Molyvos experience: we loved the "Blue Fox" zakaroplasteio particularly, and
were also very warmly received by Nicos (who sold us a bag for my Mum) and
his sister Betty, who helps run the "O Nassos" taverna next door to his shop
in the agora - not to mention, of course, the folks at the Captain's Table,
who asked to be mentioned in any communication.

Thanks again: people who take the trouble to post beautifully written Web
Pages like yours really make the internet work as it should. We will most
definitely be back in Molyvos next year, hopefully late June or May.

Yeia Sou!
Bob (Hughes)

A very good friend of mine gave me your website To check out Lesvos. My mother was born in Mitiline and she came from a place called Halika. My wife Alkmini was born in Mitiline from a place called,UP SKALA, just above the Market place in Mitiline. Later on as a little girl they bought a house in a town called Chrissomalousa, there she stayed till she came to America, in "47". My mother came to America in 1919, to be Married. ME, I am an American born who is very delighted to read and see your website. Your website is beautifull and I am learning alot about Mitiline. I have been there but one time,When I took my mother to see her country once again after 47 years. I was so very happy to see my mother so very happy, that literally she lost her voice in her exciment. We stayed in Mitiline for one month and we almost saw all of it. I would like to go again but a bad heart is keeping me away, but my memory of Mitiline still stays with me. I am 78 years young now and waitng to see the turn of the century, then who knows. Thank you very much on your important time to read my letter.It really brought Mitiline back to me. Thanks Peter

As I think your website is one of the best on the net my message is firstly one of encouragement and 'keep it up'.

Secondly, perhaps like you I first went to Greece as a student when I was 18 & 19 and worked in club med in Corfu and had to sell blood in Athens to survive. England then had exchange control and one had to live off a limited allowance.

I travelled to Lesbos in 1972 under the colonels as I was told that people were exiled there and so for me this did not mean I would compromise my principles. With my then wife, we were intent on island hopping and had a rigid itinerary to see lots of sites and sights. We got to Plomari and stayed for 3 weeks and indeed made friends with the usual crew of chief of police, the mayor, local lawyer and exiled son [Dimitri Vounatsos later an MP for Lesvos], my future brother in law and others who all drank with each other in the centre of town. As a result when our sons were over 4 we came back for the summer beach holiday and rented for 2 years. Then I bought a small village house overlooking Plomari harbour in 1979 - now in ex wifes possession !

What I was going on about in the attachment was Megalochori where I had the good fortune to buy a house 12 years ago. You mention that the place is called the Switzerland of Lesvos but this is not because of any similarity of the locals to the Swiss - as you rightly identify they and the inhabitants of Plomari are described by the rest of the island as eccentric, mad, unusual but despite this they are very worthwhile: so different from the Swiss I have met in Zurich and elsewhere. To flavour their originality you have to hang out with them for some time and have the time to laugh at and with the world which inevitably goes by. The Swiss epithet is probably because of the hight at 652 metres or 2200 feet above sea level allied with an amazing view over all the south side of the island from Agias Isidoros,Turkey, Chios, Ypsara [on a clear spring day] and to Agias Phocas. Another reason is the ruggedness of rock and the dense forests of pines with their associated resin smell in summer. The air is invigorating, unpolluted and thinner so one sleeps more soundly. I could also rabbit on about the taste of the water and how it is the only sort that tastes right with local triple distilled ouzo and so on

I do think that when you are next there [and you have sufficient time and a modicum of interest] you should look a little more closely at the South side and cover Tarti, Melinda. Krifti and Drota as coastal resorts and then go onto deal with the upland villages such as Megalochori Akrasion etc. Though the roads are not as smooth and tarred as one would like getting out into these areas is like going back in time and can be brilliant. If perchance you do venture south from Agiassos over the mountain and pass through Megalochori please look us up. The telephone no. is 252 92 284. We aren't in the book - this is the previous owners [called Mouropolos/Bailas], number as the locals advised against changing it because one had to pay. Mouropolos was an artist in concrete and stone who was an architect and built the Greek equivalent of the Maginot line called the Metaxa line after the dictator. It too was useless as it was built next too Bulgaria and Turkey and Greece was invaded through Albania and Macedonia - very unsporting.

We have a young child so do not get out to the island as much as we would like but anytime please ring.

best regards

John Newman

Hi Matt,

Like all your other readers, our trip to Athens and Eresos was
dramatically enhanced thanks to your web site - THANK YOU!!!!'

In doing lots of research on the web and other places, I can honestly
say that I returned always to your site for the best information by

We printed out a lot of your stuff and took it with us - which was
really great. For example, your guide to the Acropolis is perhaps the
most to the point and easy to understand of all the guides I read, in
terms of putting it in perspective. After reading your guide "on the
ground", the other books became intelligible!

Lesvos - well what can I say. My wife, two and half year old daughter
and I thoroughly enjoyed Skala Eresos, and it was basically through your
guide that we chose it. A great find, and lovely village. Spent about 6
days there, and had a number of meals at Max Bennet's restaurant - your
recommendation is well deserved.

We stayed at the Aeolian Village Hotel (bed & brkfst only) - although it
worked well for us in that our daughter loved the pool and facilities
for little kids, we still spent most of our time in the village. Also
felt that there were 2 price structures - one for the Hotel, and one for
people in the village! Needless to say, we did everything in the

Enough now - again, a HUGE THANK YOU for the web site - by far the most
useful guide to Greece out there!

craig lauder

Dear Friend,
Your internet side was very instrumental in our choosing to take a 2 week
holiday just outside Mythimna (Eftalou) (29 June-13 July). Thanks for the
appératif....... the rest was spectacular (too) and the best family holiday
we have ever had.

I promised Angelo at the Anatoly Restaurant on the Eftalou road (between
Hotels Pantelinos and Mythimna Beach) that I would propose his restaurant to
be included as it really was quite excellent. We tried many places during
our two weeks (lovely to HAVE to each lunch and dinner every day!!) and we
were all impressed each time we ate a meal at Anatoly - clean plates every
time. (I see you already have his younger brother's restaurant further
along towards Eftalou Beach on the list.) Angelo is a perfectionist -
arriving at the restaurant early and cooking all the "day's specials" from
recipe's which were passed down to him from his grandfather who ran the
restaurant before him. He served the tastiest stuffed tomatoes and his
Stefados (?spelling) was the most delicious "stew" I had ever tasted. Also
his Meatballs in the Oven are so subtly flavoured with herbs they just
melted in your mouth.

It would certainly do his hard work and dedication justice if you considered
including him in your "restaurant" section.

Thanks, once again, for your excellent internet contribution for the
cerebral types, who like to know what to expect. It really is the "thinking
man's" holiday venue. The lack of commercialism means that getting to know
Molyvos was an esoteric affair - by using your senses and more and more was

In this respect, I followed up your tip about zen buddhists, but was just
too late to attend a yoga week - maybe next time/year. Do you know of any
other activities or any other "esoteric" groups who live or gather on the

We will return to Mytilini - it is a well kept secret!
Very best wishes
Diane Rasmussen

after studying your site we chose lesvos to go on holiday
in 1 week we toured most of the island (early june)we found
best beach was gavathas <real sand followed by sigri and then
a very good/friendly/cheap(£450 for everything)holiday
we reccomend as well

Dear Matt, We LOVE Lesvos! We went to Sigri yesterday and ate at Remezzoz (I
am sure I am spelling it wrong) and we went through the Petrified Forest
museum...didn't have time for the real thing yet. Then went to the beach
there and then in the jeep took a road bumpy and dirt an hour beyond and saw
a beautiful body of water deserted on the way and tried to find our way
there. About to give up we turned back and saw a covered dirt road and cut
across the field. There was a gate there with a Greek sign...we assumed it
said enter, enjoy and close the gate after you. Does that sound reasonable?
So, we did that and of course my husband had to go into every deserted spot
on the beach. He said that was his high point. Then we went to Erresos and
said hi to Jo. Everywhere we went we said if you referred us that we are
there specifically because of you. I didn't have my pages on Erresos with me
so we ate pizza at the Sapphos and soon realized we were the only guy/girl
couple there! Then we heard the alternative music. It was an experience! Ha!
Then we got lost in the dark coming back and asked directions and ended up
on a shortcut road to Molyvos. It was pitch black out and a dirt road and
bumpy. Ron was exhausted and grouchy and I was a little frightened. A
shepherd came up and stood by the car and I thought this is it, we are going
to die on Lesvos. He used broken English to tell us how to get to Molyvos.
Today we missed the excursion next to the Sea Horse by five minutes but will
go tomorrow. We ate at that restaurant next to Molyvos on the mountain
overlooking it...darn...can't remember the name but we showed them the
article from your site and all the waiters were reading it. Our only bad
experience has been that damned St. George hotel and the rip off prices we
didn't expect on laundy ($100 for a small bag) and $75 for the internet. Ron
felt like we'd been robbed. George has been great. We loved Sounio.
Today we are hanging out and going to the baths in Eftalou. We love the Sun
Rise and Theo is great adn the dog Spiros. Spiros got hit by a car and his
leg is healing. I still haven't tried Ouzo. Am getting up mu nerve. We
toured the castle. Everything you said to do has been a success...anytime we
veered from your advice we found ourselves in trouble. I CANNOT WAIT for
your book to come out. I don't want to bother you in Athens. If you get to
Lesvos before we leave on the 18th we would be honored to buy you or you and
your family a nice meal at the place of your choice. Better run. There are
several great internet cafes in Molyvos now with decent connections and
keyboards. Oh, we ate at The Captain's Table! Great! And today we go to the
Octopus. Yasos! Anneke

Dear Matt Barrett,
Your site was very helpful to us, when we planned our holiday to the beautiful island of Lesbos. Overwhelmed by its beauty, I got inspired to make several pendrawings. You can check them out at the following URL:


Olaf & Saskia

It has been almost twenty years since I have been to my Mother's Island Of Lesvos, in the town of Mytiline. You have done a beautiful job in telling, and showing some snap shots of Old Lesvos,especially Mitilinewhere I sat at a place called, "Fontis", drinking my warm beer,for I don't think they had refrigeration then. I am 78 years young, and making a trip to Mitiline may be out of the question. However what you have been doing and showing things on the computer it is enough to bring many memories back to me, and I want to thank you for it. I have one question. Is there any place in Mitiline where I can send a message by E-Mail. I can speak American Greek, but i can't write, it nor read it. I don't mean to be boughter to you, BUT I di hope you continue the beautiful work you are doing. I am looking in reading some more of your works on Lesbos!! My mothers Island.Thanking you for taking time in reading my E-mail.

My name is Agapitos and I would like to congratulate you on your web page ( am from
Mytilene but I live in Athens because of my studies.I must admit that reading your pages made me really
homesick.It's really encouraging to know that Mytilene and Lesvos are places that can still inspire
a foreigner without having this intense tourist-attractive profile and I am certain that you have captured
another side of Mytilene and Lesvos that maybe I have become so accustomed to that now I tend to overlook.Anyway,it's a really great site.Well done!

Best regards
Agapitos Aretakis

Dear Matt

I just visited and I believe that you have done an excellent job.
It is amazing how many things you know about the island.
There were a lot of things I don't know although I have spent more than one
year in the island and I visit it very often. In a matter of speaking I am
leaving Pireaus with Mitilyne on Thursday afternoon.

The fact that people use your work without even giving you the credit it is
so "Greek". Believe me I know.

The reason I am e-mailing you other than to compliment your work is to
suggest you a tavern in Lesvos that you should definitely visit and include
in your site.

Is called "Mpalouchanas" (believe me it's difficult even for a Greek to say
it) and it is in Perama in Gera Gulf (Kolpos tis Geras). The food is a
little better than dull and service is average. But when it comes to the
location than things do change. The tables are on a cement base that is
surrounded by the sea. You have literally the feeling that you are IN the
Gulf. If you are lucky (as I did) you might see a dolphin swimming a few
meters away from you while you having a "meze".

I consider that place one of the best places to eat in Lesvos!
I hope that during your next visit in Lesvos you will have the opportunity
to visit Mpalouchanas.

Kind regards
Petros Tritsinis

Your web site is great. I just returned... very reluctantly.... from
visiting Lesbos and I agree that it is a beautiful island. I have been
to many Greek Isles but this one is really unique in its
beauty..specially Sigri and Molyvos! Having seen your site before
taking the trip was of so much help that I have to thank you and commend
you for the wonderful job you have done. Even though I was with Greek
friends who knew the island very well, I still used some of the
information you provided on this page.

Thanks again


Thank you sooooo much. My wife and I traveled to Lesvos and fell in love with the island.
The sights, the people, the food (Oh, the food, beer and Ouzo).
Your web sight made it even more enjoyable.
Thanks Again,
R. Streight

Hi Matt:

I just wanted to thank you for all of your assistance (via your web site
and your e-mail) in planning our recent trip to Greece. We have just
returned from a most delightful adventure in Athens, Rhodes (where I had
a scientific meeting), and Lesvos. We only spent a few days in Athens,
but enjoyed every minute of it.
Thank you for linking us with the Dolphin Hellas Travel agency. We did
all of our bookings exclusive of my conference through them. As you
noted, they were quite accommodating and professional our flight plans,
airport transfers, hotels, etc were excellent.

Most of all, thank you for introducing us to Lesvos through your web
pages. This island was just what the doctor ordered! Since the 4 of us
arrived around midnight and we had rented a small car, we wanted to stay
nearby. Hotel Heliotrope in Varia fit the bill well. We explored a
different part of the island each day and it would be difficult to
choose a favorite place! Certainly Molyvos and Petra were delightful,
but so was Yera, Agiassos, Agios Isodoros, Kaloni, and Sigri. Both the
Archeological Museum of Mytilini and the Ecclesesiastical-Byzantine
Museum were great. The food and the people were fantastic with one
exception - please remove The Octopus in Molyvos from the list of
recommended choices. This was the only disappointing meal (and service)
that we experienced on the whole trip. Most of their seafood had been
previously frozen and tasted far from fresh, the service was surly, and
the number of stray, aggressively begging cats far outnumbered the
number of diners. Navagio and Stratos in Mytilini were wonderful as

We look forward to a return visit to Lesvos as well as other islands and
the mainland.

Best regards,


Dear Mr. Barrett:

I was one of those who were lucky enough to check your website on
Greece and receive your newsletter. I am originally from Athens and
have lived in the U.S for 13 years. This year, we were looking for a
new place to go in Greece, when not in Athens. We took your advice
and visited Lesvos. We stayed at the Aeolean Village hotel/resort
at Skala Eressou and visited the western and northern part of the
island. Lesvos was as you described it. Friendly, authentic, not
yet so spoiled. My husband, who is Greek-American and has been to
Greece four times, said that he would be most likely to visit Lesvos
again more than any other place he has visited in Greece.

On our fist day in Athens we went to Monastiraki and visited the
jewlery store you recommended. Your friend helped me find a great
ring and he gave us a tremendous price. He truly has some beautiful
pieces in both stores. Your wife was right!

So, what can I say? I still cannot believe that I made all my
vacation planning thanks to your great advice.

Thank you.

Bessie Karras

Hi Matt,
Thank you for all the useful information I received for Greece! It seems
like you, literally speaking, fell in love with the natural beauty of this
'Godblessed land', which is the country I come from. I was impressed of the
depth of the information provided on your web pages, and the accuracy of it.
The only drawback was that some of the pictures(on the 'Lesvos' page) were
not visible at all, or took a long time to appear on the screen.

As for your new page on the island of Lesvos, I have to say that I found it
extremely interesting the way you supplied people with the right reasons for
visiting the island. I totally agree with you on how beautiful and unspoilt
this island is! Especially the view from the village of Sigri is
breathtaking. I always have this picture of Sigri on my mind but not so
vivid as I keep it inside my heart! It is a place that attracts you with its
natural striking beauty and culture than it's nightlife, which is hardly

For once again WELL DONE Matt!!
I truly hope Greece won't let you down!

Just a quick note to thank you for all the useful info on the web
pages. We've just returned from a wonderful two-week holiday there (in Molyvos),
which was made all the better by the restaurant and sightseeing recommendations
in your guide. I can safely say it was the best Greek holiday we've ever had,
and the taverna selection provided us with some unforgettable eating experiences
and romantic views of this lovely island.

Thanks again, and keep up the good work!


John Hart and Kim Butler

Dear Mr Barrett

I have spent the last half hour going through your web page on Lesvos and I feel compelled to email to you to say it's bloody fantastic!!

I am a recent Internet user and the reason why I chose Lesvos is that my parents are from the island. I have been there many times myself however the last time I was there was 1994.

I'm trying to find information for my husband who is an Aussie, just to show him what it's like and how great it is. Besides your web page is so comprehesive with great links.

I must say, I was a little disappointed there was no information on the village of Stipsi. I know it's a bit of a dead end kind of place but it's where my family is from.
I mean if you can do a write up on the village of Xidera surely you can do one for Stipsi!! I know you have family there; is that why you included Xidera on your web page?

Anyway, thanks for compiling such great information on Lesvos.

Yours sincerely

Mary Seretis-Joiner.

You have the most fascinating newsletter I've ever seen. It gets me out of my doldrums when I miss Greece but it also gives my family here a great idea of why I love it so much. I've given your address to quite a few friends and classmates that are interested to see where I'm moving to and they love your style too. You have been a breath of fresh air for me while I wait to be back with my fiance and his sister's family this May.

Thank you Thank you Thank you !!!!!

thank you for your quick reply. We'll write to Sappho straight away, and if
it's not possible at all to go also to Samos (all considered, Santorini
could be left for another trip, possibly NOT in August, as it looks
terribly crowded), we'll explore Lesvos at ease. In fact, what has striken
me in your description of the island was mainly your opinion that was
impossible to get bored there. My husband is the "easy-bored" type so one
has to be careful when planning a trip :-)

And thank you again for your site: you succeded wonderfully in mixing
personal opinions, souvenirs and advices with useful general information. I
think we'll print all your pages on Lesvos and bring them with us as the
best guide. Do Greek islands, and Lesvos in particular, understand how much
they owe you?

all the best

Claudia DG

Hi Matt.

We returned from Plomari last week, at the time where you returned from Sifnos. But anyway We had a good Wacacion. This time We had mopeds, ouer son is old enough to drive now, it is the first time we have tryed to see the island in this way, it´s fantastic you get the things in another way. We stayed as usually in Hotel Irini in Amoudeli, on the road to Melinda, the road are under construction, but we could get through to Melinda on moped.The town have got a new mayor, so they are shinning up the old road to Amoudeli as well as the little square in Plomari.We asked Leo, a danish gouy who have lived there for several years, about Ouzo with a cork in, and he told us he had newer seen it. Next morning my wife found a bottle in the supermarket, so it still exit, and we found the factory, but me and Leo had never seen it in anny cafeneon. Leo have got you´r sites about Lesvos, and I have told a lot of other people about it. Some have conection to the Web, and to others I´m printing it out and sending it to them (it is danish people), I hope this is allright.That´s all for now Matt, I´ll contact you later on the year, because We are planing to go to Athen in November.
Thank you for the good informations about Greece, our number 2 country.

All the best


Just thought I'd drop you a quick line to let you know how much me and my
girlfriend enjoyed our two week stay at Skala Eressos in September.

I found the details on your website and booked in through Yianna at Eressos
travel. We stayed at Heliotopos and found it as lovely as you suggested.
Yianna came over to see us around a week into our holiday to make sure all
was well and her father constantly brought us armfuls of figs or bunches of
grapes. The parrot, you will be pleased to hear, still enjoys joining in
with whistling games across the garden and has perfected both a cat's meow
and the sound of a car horn, employed whenever a car comes up the drive.
Pure heaven.

I have been asked to send regards from Yianna, Kostas at the Blue Horizon
(who insisted that I come back in spring to hunt octopus with him, and this
time stay at HIS hotel!) and also Vassilis (who is now working at the
Adonis), with whom we spent pleasant evenings sipping ouzo and talking about
life, love and everything! All in all you seem to be something of a
celebrity out there - as Vassilis put it: 'Others do it for money, Matt
Barrett does it for love'.

Thank you for all your good advice.


dear matt i happen to born in lesvos now living in usa

when i visited your web page for the first time i stuned

over the good things you wrote about the island and its

people thank you

nick delongos

I was browsing the web and came across youre site on
Lesvos. It is such an enjoyable read and i wanted to
let you know how lovely it is to come across something
so exact to the island. I have been only been once
last summer but hope to go again with my Greek
boyfriend this summer. Many of the places you wrote
about i have been to and it was lovely to read about
the history and background which i didn't know about.

Hi Matt

Had to put 'fingers to computer' and let you know how excellent your article
is on Lesvos. And what a thrill it was for us to find it. After visiting
many places on our holidays, a few years ago we arrived in Lesvos. Little
did we know that when we stepped off that plane and climbed on the coach to
go to Petra that we would be 'smitten'. And since then we have gone back
every year. Something we had never thought to do before.
We live on an Island ourselves (don't know if you've ever been here) called
the Isle of Wight, of the south coast of England, it's about half the size
of Lesvos. We have beautiful scenery, many beaches, some rugged, some more
commercial and so when we go away on holiday we are not the typical holiday
maker. We do not grab our towel and rush down to the beach. Quite the
opposite, it's walking shoes, camera and head inland, away from tourists,
into the villages and mountains with the magnificent scenery which we never
tire of. It's trial and error but we have now discovered some great walks,
nothing too strenuous and usually with a Taverna on route. We go away in May
and October, when it's quieter, as we are loath to leave our own Island
during the summer months.
As we have been unable to find a map of these walks and on occasions find
ourselves directing lost walkers. I am thinking of writing a booklet myself,
although on second thoughts, perhaps we should remain selfish and keep them
to ourselves as we rarely meet anyone and can admire the beauty of our
surroundings without interference.
We have been to many other Greek Islands, and have enjoyed our holidays but
nothing has compared to Lesvos. We stay on a smallholding on the outskirts
of Petra, very basic, but suits us just fine. Christina and her family are
very hard working people that work all day on their land and each weekend
load up their pony and go to Molivos to sell their produce.
The greeting we get each year when we walk through their gate is heart
warming although it's distressing when Christina is in tears when we leave.
We cannot talk to each other as she speaks no English, but I consider her a
friend. And because of the language difficulty I am now trying to learn
Greek. Its very difficult on the Isle of Wight as there is nowhere I can get
any lessons, so I sent away for a couple of C.D. ROMs and with my four
phrase books I am managing to learn enough to speak one or even two line
sentences, but I need conversation experience and am now advertising in the
local paper to see if there is a Greek speaking person to help me out.
This year we are going to Lesvos in May and September, landing on the 10th
of May for two weeks and again in September on the 27th for another two
Each year we hire a motorbike for a few days to get about further on the
Island. We have been to Agiasos and certainly intend to go there again this
year. Last time we went there we met up with a lady who lives there, she was
Greek but had spent some years in Australia and she delighted in talking to
us in English as she told us it was the only time she had the chance. We
want to seek her out again.
In September we hope to do some 'Lesvos hopping'. Travelling about on
motorbike and staying in other area's that we have not yet managed to get
We particularly like the sound of the remote village you speak of, after
searching the map we found it (we think). On the map spelt Chidira near
Vatousa. We have been along this road many times but never dreamt that there
was a village there. Do you think the locals would mind if we visited them,
we do not want to impose, we know ourselves what a 'pain' tourists can be,
and do not want to upset their peace and quiet.
We have managed to find our way to small villages on occasions and have
always received a wonderful welcome from the locals. On One occasion when
staying in Vatera, and while riding pushbikes we cycled to two villages
called Kato Stavros and Stavros. They made us feel like royalty and one man
who was hanging out washing came across the road to greet us and practise
his English. These people put us British to shame as we rarely bother to
learn another language.
Each year we are amazed at how many locals remember us and have come out to
greet us and given us fruit or veg. Or the English speaking make a point of
shaking our hands and welcome us back. This is what makes Lesvos so special
and we would never want to take this hospitality for granted.
I am at work at the moment so had better stop day-dreaming of our next visit
to Lesvos and get some work done. It's been nice 'talking' to you Matt, hope
I haven't bored you too much. And once again thank you for your interesting
Pat and Brian Medley from the Isle of Wight

Matt, this is a belated thank you from my wife, Marilyn and I for the information on your website about Lesvos. We travelled to Lesvos in September/October of 1999, on the recommendation of a native son who now runs a great Greek restaurant near where we live. He sent us to his village where we stayed for several days before we travelled around the Island with the assistance of your information. I won't identify the village, which isn't described on your site, mostly because I don't want to attract any more attention than it already gets from the outside world, which isn't much--at least as far as we could tell during the brief time that we were there. Anyway, I am inspired to express our gratitude to you as my thoughts return to Lesvos and to the possibility of another, longer trip there soon. Thank you again!

Paul Kyba

Matt, your information is Great and so is the presentation of information.
You have helped tremendously in my plans for visiting there in the spring.
I plan on leaving a bottle of Ouzo with Jo and Joanna with Your Name On IT

Dear Matt Barrett, you have made a great site, very much information. I am
going to Lesvos with my daughter this summer (and planning to Chios some
days) and printed all your information, it's better than buying a lonely
planet guide, which has just five pages about lesvos. We travelled a lot in
Greece, Crete, Samos, Rhodos, Kos, Corfu, we like the atmosphere, the
people, the culture etc. Maybe I will e-mail you some pictures and
impressions 'from your favourite island' this summer.
Albert Vondeling from Holland.

Hello Matt

After visiting your site last year we booked a two week holiday on Lesvos in
early May and it was...paradise. I've never taken so many photos of wild
flower meadows and tortoises. We tried most of the restaurants you
recommended and a few we found ourself.
We're going back in two weeks and two days( not that I'm counting). Just
dropping a line to say thanks for all the info it's brilliant. I agree about
the spas. Thermi on Yerra was like a trip back in time... pure luxury. All I
needed was a Greek God and a bunch of grapes!
In case you update your site We tried the restaurant at Gavatha run by the
lady from America and she wasn't cooking last year, because her daughters
had gone away.
Also much as I love your website I had to click your
daughter/granddaughters/niece's(?) site as the best - because it made me

kind regards and best wishes

Kate Taylor

Dear Matt, Just a short note to say thank you for your wonderful
website! What a great job you have done! I enjoy reading it. A friend
and I are heading to Lesvos...we are going to stay at the Clara
hotel..not on your website but looks lovely and a good deal..I will be
staying another week after she leaves and have written to Sapho travel
for suggestions. Again, thanks for your generous sharing of info and
so well done! Andrea

to Matt Barrett

my compliments for your website. We were at Lesvos (Molyvos) this summer and before we´ve read most of the information that you´ve put on your web-site. A lot of useful information and tips about the islands.


Herman den Besten
the Netherlands (Europe)

Spent two happy weeks on Lesvos thanks to your wonderful site. Stayed at Kaptanis and met a few of your friends. Thanks again.


Well we had a great time visiting Lesvos much to finding and getting inspired by your Travel Guide. We even sat right behind you at Adonis one lunch. I did not want to disturb you since your where busy with some guests, I regret that a little. Erssos is wonderful for a nice relaxing holiday and we also had the best food ever in Greece in Lesvos. Du you know anything about Limnos?
Sincerely, Susanne Lehrman

Dear Mr. Barrett;

Thank you thank you thank you for your delightful pages about Lesvos! Using them enormously improved the quality of my family's holiday.

We stayed in Molyvos, at Mirsini Studios (NOT recommended!), and ate quite regularly at Sansibal Restaurant (HIGHLY recommended!) If you accept restaurant reviews for your site, let me know, and I'll send one along. By the way, we tried Octopus in the harbour and had grilled swordfish that even our extraordinarily fussy children (5 & 7) enjoyed. Thanks for that tip.

Best regards,


Dear Matt
Please could you send me your newsletter, I would like to say how much I enjoy your web site, being a lover of Greece
and all things Greek,especially the Greek people.We were in Lesvos in June,for the 1st time, staying in your village of
Petra, at the Nicholas House studios,only for one week,we enjoyed it so much,the village, the square at the sea front at
night, lovely food and friendly people, some of which I shared an ouzo with in the square beyond the church,and in the
tavernas along the beach,anyway, we have already booked up for next June to stay at the Blue Sky Studios, Which I
believe you recommend, This time for 2 weeks ,so we can have more time to explore the region a bit more, especially Molyvos.I would be grateful of any tips or recommendations of the area.We have been to many islands, and the mainland
and have enjoyed them all in different ways, We are off to Crete in October so not to long to wait,thank you once again
and look forward to hearing from you soon.yours sincerly.
Phil Williams

Yiassou Matt,

In hopes this finds you and yours well and in good health.

While spending a few minutes at the computer, I happened across your site and felt compelled to drop a note. We were in contact prior to taking our grand girls to the "old country" in 1999 and your web site, plus our contact made the trip an extremely successful event. Three generations of our family in Greece for three weeks: visiting relatives, shopping, touring, cruising and exposing my children and grandchildren to my culture......I told my wife that I could now die a happy man.

You've expanded your site since I explored it last, and done a heck of a job with it. Should our paths ever cross or should I catch up with you on Lesvos, the drinks are on me. When my parents fled Smyrna, Turkey; that was their first home before moving on to Pireus -- Likovrissi - Kokinya, etc.
I won't take any more of your time, but I couldn't pass up saying, "Yiassou".

Nah eemahsteh kala,

Dear Matt,

We have just returned from our 2-week holiday on Lesvos, and thought you might like our comments.

We booked at the Sunrise Hotel, Molyvos, via Sappho Travel. The latter are totally chaotic, and response varies between nothing and late, but is always informative, cheerful, full of humour, and totally honest. I have never encountered anyone like them and would unhesitatingly recommend them, unless you suffer from any form of heart condition!

The Sunrise is truly splendid. From Anastasia on Reception - the most cheerful and helpful receptionist I have ever met - to the car hire guy who was so accommodating, to the great view across the strait to Turkey, everything was just perfect. Even its position was just far enough outside town to be completely peaceful, yet near enough to be able to walk there in 20 minutes if you missed the bus.

On the slightly negative side I should add the following:

The island was larger than we thought, and touring, even with air conditioning, to Sigri, Eressos etc was quite tiring. However, it did confirm what Sappho Travel told us - that the area we had chosen to stay was best suited to us. Skala Eressos had a great beach but, at least on the day we visited, it was unbearably hot (and we'd already been on the island for over a week to acclimatise!).

I should also add that the Molyvos harbour restaurants (even the Captain's Table, which you have praised so highly) were all okay, but very similar to each other, and we actually preferred the last one you come to - Pharos, which had a more local clientele, better service, and slightly better food. However, our top three restaurants have to be as follows:

1. The Eftalou Restaurant (where you had recommended the Spinach Pie etc). The service was superb, and the food was the freshest, the choice was enormous, and the view was great. A 20-minute walk from the Sunrise, along by the beach - we could have eaten there every night! Apparently some Americans have asked for the Spinach Pie and left if it isn't on that night, so please warn people - the food is the freshest you can get, so not everything is available every night. But don't worry - it's all great!

2. The restaurant in Petri, in the hills above Petra. I've mislaid the name, but the village is tiny, and there is only one restaurant, so you can't miss it. The view is to die for, the service is great, and they take you into the kitchen to see what is on offer that day. The kitchen is tiny, so the menu is not vast, but everything is cooked with love, and there's something for everyone.

3. The Vafios restaurant you recommended is very similar, and only comes below the Petri one because the view is not quite as good (though still wonderful), and you don't get to choose your meal from the kitchen. The menu, however, is more extensive, and all home cooked, so there's nothing much to choose between them.

We found the Anatoli disappointing.

That's about it. Thank you very much for all the information you provided, which helped to give us the best holiday any of us can remember. We may even buy a house there!

Best regards,

Colin Flint

Hi Matt
Firstly, I would like to congratulate you on a fabulous site !
No other site or guide book gave us anywhere near the amount of information yours did.
We just came back from a weeks holiday in Lesvos - a stunning island !
My partner and I are real "foodies" so we printed off your restaurant guide pages & took them with us. We soon came to the conclusion that there were "too many restautants - not enough time ! ", but I thought I'd let you know of a couple of our favourites.
We stayed in Anaxos which was fine as a resort, but in terms of eating fairly ordinary. We did go to Avlaki, which was superb and had also been recommended to us by the car hire firm we used - the Moussaka was beautiful !
We took the advice of the Dutch couple who emailed you & went in search of "The Traditional" in Petra. What a find ! You really must try it - we had meal of starters only because there were so many on the menu that we hadn't seen anywhere else we couldn't narrow it down enough to leave room for a main course ! The stuffed peppers were to die for and the split pea dip divine. We also had fresh ( as opposed to canned ) stuffed vine leaves for the first time and their garlic bread is delicious. And even in the busy summer months there is free ice-cream !
Our other favourite restaurant was Vangelis, in Molyvos. We intended to go to the Captains Table but were seduced by the sight of Mr. Vangelis chopping up a huge fresh tuna outside his restaurant next door. We got chatting to him and ended up staying & having the best fish meal we can remember ! It was an enormous platter of mixed grilled fish - tuna, swordfish, black bream, sardines and two other fish we couldn't identify but all cooked to perfection. We also had potatoes cookes in olive oil, lemon juice and oregano which were simply divine - and all washed down by a superb house white wine - my mouth is watering as I sit & type this !!
Mr. Vangelis was charming and we were really made to feel like special guests - his restaurant is right next door to the Captains Table ( on the right as you face it ) Unfortunately, that was our last night there so we left Lesvos without trying the Captains Table but I think if anyone can't get a table there ( as they were very busy from 9.30 onwards) then they could do much worse than try Vangelis.
Thanks again for a great site & we're looking forward to trying some more of your recommendations next time we visit Greece !
Liz Mason & David Hesketh


I returned from my honeymoon in Greece this past
Sunday. About a month before going on the trip I came
upon your web site which was a great help. Because
some of the tri had already been planned we used it
for our time on Lesvos and Santorini. It was a great

We stayed at The Sunrise Hotel in Lesvos. The hotel
and the town of Molyvos were by far the highlight of
our honeymoon. Lesvos was quiet and relaxing but the
city had a nice level of energy for the evenings. The
Sunrise Hotel had a beautiful accommodations and
friendly staff that truly made us feel at home. By
the way, they speak very highly of you as well. We
also made two trips to the hot springs with an
additional trip up to the restaurant near by on the
same beach. In the city we had some wonderful meals,
wondered around the streets and went to a play in the

We also used your guide for our stay in Santorini.
Thank you for that assistance, without it we would
have been disappointed with this part of the holiday.
We were looking for a calm and relaxing vacation. Our
travel agent did not see fit to put us up anywhere
besides Fira. As you know, Fira is far from calm and
relaxing. So, with the help of your guide we stayed
at Villa Mathios. Mamma's food was fantastic and she
is such a doll. Kostas was friendly and made us
laugh. We had a lovely time there. We were lucky
enough to be there for Greek Night where we were
entertained with music and food and dancing. This was
a fantastic evening that was one of the 2 highlights
of our trip to Santorini. The second highlight was
that my husband found a small trail leading off to
these hidden little beaches/coves near Akritorini.
The quiet and the blue waters were about as romantic
as one could ask for.

Besides that we went to Athens and Naxos and we made
day trips to Mykonos and Delos.

Thank you so much for you assistance. The information
on your web site made such a difference in our
honeymoon. I only wish I had found it sooner.

Take care & safe travels!

Hi there, Matt...

I would like to thank you for all that useful information on Lesvos.
(I printed out quite a few of your pages to bring with us..)

We stayed on this great island for 3 weeks in June ( Agios Isidoros).

This village is very nice, actually. Not too many tourists (at least not in June), and just as small to make it "cosy".
We stayed in the hillside in a 2-room appartment , that was owned by a greek couple who had been living in Australia for 32 years.
Returning to Greece was not only easy for them. Having lived in the modern, western world for so long, I think it was difficult to re-adapt to the greek way of living.

After a week we rented a car for 3 days and drove "all over" the island. And we found the turtles both in Skala Eressos and Vatera, and it was great fun feeding them.
The kids just loved it !!! (ok...we did too...)
And we took a bath in the hot spring in Eftalou, which must have been hotter than hell....It took a while before we could force our bodies into the steaming hot water....
But I guess it was good for us.(.it better be.....)

We stayed at the Eftalou Hotel ( very nice) and spent the evening in Molyvos. A great place, but too crowded with tourists..

Having read so much of your written "work", there was no way out;... Xidera.....

And we were not was a very nice village to visit, --not much to do or see, but more to feel and experience.
We had lunch at Avglaia and Panayotis, which truly was an experience. When we came they all moved to one table so that we could have one of the two tables
outside the cafeneon. "WHAT YOU WANT"???, a man asked us!!!. He was, he said, not from the village, but a taxi-driver from a village nearby ( that is if I understood him right in his elegant greek-english...) Anyway, this nice man helped us pick from the missing menu, and after a while Avglaia comes out with
beer, sodas, fries, fetasalad, and of course; fried eggplant and lamb chops.......but....not only once, but two and even three times. We tried to stop her from making more, but in vain....
Nevertheless...I have never tasted lamb chops that good before, and all my son Sigurd (10), could think of after that, was her lamb-chops.......
--And for dessert, fresh fruits from their own garden...delicious!!!!

Then they showed us this book with pictures of themselves from your website, telling us that you were coming to Xidera in two days................................

It is not always easy to explain to the kids the need and importance of this kind of cultural experience, but this time I think they understood...and as they said; "this would never have happened at the Pebble Beach Restaurant...."

Well, we're off and after a short visit to Gavatha( which was really deserted this time of the year), we went to Sigri, which was really a great place to stay the night. A bit strange to see that this charming place has so few tourists.

...So,--we hade a great time, an a very nice vacation ........ much obliged to you, Matheos, and the people of Lesvos....

Best regards, and take care..

Tor & May Britt Christensen
Silje (9), and Sigurd (10).

After finding your Web Site I found island I had never heard of before!.....What a fantastic discovery, we have just returned from a 2 week family holiday staying at the Heliotopos apartments in Scala Erosos. Scala really suited our needs...quiet enough with lots of tavernas and the best thing was that they served authentic and traditional food...plenty of choice and excellent quality. Hiring a car we saw plenty of the island, mainly the west. We would certainly go back. Thanks must also go to Amalia at Erosos Travel for her persistence in finding us our accommodation. Greece really is a wonderful place and now I must try and find somewhere similar for our 2002 holiday...back in Greece of course.

many thanks once again...your website is encyclopaedia of knowledge



We just got back from Petra, Lesvos, and found the To Paradosiako restaurant as recommended by Marianne and Leo Oosterling.
It's well worth a visit, and our directions are:
Face the rock with the sea to your back, and walk up the right-hand side street. You will pass a lot of restaurants on your right, the rock being on your left, but keep going. You will come to Alexander Square (mini market and another restaurant). At this point you are about halfway there, so keep walking. All this time you will be going slightly uphill, but the gradient is not steep. When the gradient flattens out and you start to think you are too far out of town - there it will be, on the right. A small terrace, a few tables in the street, some trees in pots outside. It's a charming restaurant, the food is good (not great, but very, very good).
We had the homemade tomato soup and fried octopus as our starters, both excellent, in fact Barry said it was the best octopus he'd had on the island. Lamb to follow and finally yoghurt and honey, which comes as a matter of course after the main dish.
A caraffe of the house white washed it all down very well and the bill was about 16,000 drx (just over £30 Sterling UK).


Vera Walker

Dear Matt,
We visited Lesvos in May 2001...what a fantastic place!
WE have placed a few birding photos on a small web may link our site to yours if it is any help.
Jim Willson

Dear Matt

Just arrived back from holiday in Petra - it's the third time we have been
there. Really is my favourite place - its so unspoilt, the Greeks are still
Greek and so friendly.

Found your website before I went, so we took some of your suggestions. Went
to the hot springs and the Eftalou Restaurant both really good, especially
our lunch at the restaurant, we just sat there waiting for the bus back to
Petra, of course, having a few more glasses of retsina!

Tried the Octopus restaurant in Molyvos and we were impressed, also went to
the Grand Blue another day, the waiter was catching fish in front of the
restaurant, it was also very good. (not on your site) (just around corner,
between Octopus and Captain's Table) (usually go to Capt Table, but is shut
at lunchtimes at the mom).

I noticed that on your site you don't have any restaurants listed in Anaxos
- the one we go to is along the main beach road, on a corner, about half way
down, it's called the Golden Sands - its always very good and the people
are really nice, (go there everytime we've been to Lesvos) - its usually
40/60% tourists and locals - always a good sign, last time we went there
lots of army boys were having lunch.

There is another great restaurant in Petra (not on your site), Giros, in the
busy back street that runs parallel with the sea, great atmosphere, sitting
in street amongst the supermarkets/shops, they did a great snapper and mix
veg, and the best humous I've ever had!!
Lastly, I must agree with the people who recommended the Traditional in
Petra, we went there twice in the week, excellent!!

Great website - I printed lots off and took it as a guide, also showed some
the people in the restaurants their photos or what you said about their
restaurants - that went down well!!!

One last thing:-
I walked though the back streets of Petra on Sunday morning @ 9.30, there
wasn't many people about (locals in church/tourist not out and about yet) it
was a wonderful hot sunny day and as we got nearer the rock you could hear
the service from the church up there being broadcast by loudspeaker, it was
really magical!

Thanks for the site, hope you try some of our suggestions next time you're
in Lesvos.

in London

Hi there Matt
Once again we have just returned from a visit to Lesvos. This Island is
really becoming like a second home to us. The people are just wonderful and
the welcome we get when we return all makes the travelling worth while.
Living on an Island ourselves it can be a long tiring journey, especially as
we leave home at 10.30p.m. at night. Taxi to ferry, ferry, taxi from ferry
to Gatwick airport, then on arrival in Lesvos the coach from Lesvos airport
to our destination in Petra, we are very tired when we arrive after a night
with no sleep. The security was stepped up at Gatwick, naturally, although
it's always pretty tight there and we was a bit concerned with what it would
be like, but we got through with very little bother.
Once in Lesvos all the travelling was forgotten and we again enjoyed meeting
old friends. We hired a motorbike and went off to some beautiful unspoilt
bays, with no people there, what bliss.
Of course we visited Auntie Aglaia again, we wouldn't have missed this for
the world. She remembered us and this time we decided to eat there, although
neither of us eat much at mid-day. So I asked for a salad thinking we would
be safe there. However she appeared with a gigantic bowl of delicious salad
and we think beans or similar in oil and cheese, (but not too sure) another
bowl of feta cheese in oil appeared, then another bowl of salad. By this
time we was fit to bursting. I whispered to my husband that he must eat it
all, otherwise he would probably be taken to the square and shot. I think
Aglaia and her husband was enjoying seeing us struggle with so much food,
and she made sure that we did eat every bit. When we bid our farewell to
them, what did we find but a man stood in the square by the tree with gun in
his hand, (was he waiting for us just in case we hadn't eaten all our meal I
wonder). I have decided that I have fallen in love with her husband. When we
first met up with him in May he looked quite fierce (we know this can be the
way of the Greeks). This time we immediately got a hand shake and a big
smile from him, his whole face lit up, what an attractive man he must have
been (and still is, when the solemn look leaves his face). I looked out for
your friend across the road but he wasn't there, so we will try again next
May when we return.
I found the post card of Aglaia and sent it back to work, I now have it on
the notice board by my desk. We also enlarged it and have it in a frame on
our living room wall. So we can remember Aglaia her husband and the village
through the winter months.
We went to Vatousa and although we have been there before we have never
walked all through the village. The people there once again were very
friendly. I wanted to help an old man who was struggling with a walking
stick to get up some steep steps. I asked him if I could help him and
although he was very polite and smiling he seemed to want manage on his own.
I hated to see him struggle but didn't interfere.
We now await winter, fortunately as we are right down south we have very
mild winters and rarely snow. What snow does fall (twice in 15 years) lasts
for a day only and completely shuts down the Island, we are not equipped for
bad weather.
During the summer months we have plenty going on here as we are a major
yachting area and have all nationalities here for the races, along with the
tourist. We go camping every weekend and had a good summer this year. If you
ever visit England try and come to the Isle of Wight, it's quite beautiful,
especially in the countryside and out of the tourist area's. It's a walkers
paradise and has over 600 miles of bridle paths and footpaths through miles
of unspoilt countryside, although it's about half the size of Lesvos.
All the best to you and your family.

Pat and Brian Medley

Thank you Matt !!!

This is the way I begin my e-mail to you because the summer of 2000 was marvelous.
We were in LESVOS, in concret in Skala Eressos on August. The place with nice beach and
very good restaurants (we love ADONIS) . We were in touch with JO and JOANNA of SAPPHO TRAVEL, they helped us to solve some problems with the lady who manages the ERESSOS PENSION . We enjoyed a lot the art shops, the aesthetic cafés, everything. The sea was very quiet, no boats in the horizon , the water very clean, the nice route to go to ERESSOS, the little village and the white houses of ERESSOS with the colored doors. We spent all our 7 days without visit anymore places, just SIGRI, a very nice place too.

I send you my best gratitude to your important work for Greece in general (and Lesvos specially).

Kindest Regards,

Rosa Pujantell




Dear Matt,

I read your websites and save some of them everytime I use the net. I love them, especially the site about lesvos. I have a summerhouse across lesvos ( at Ayvalýk-Eolia) at Cunda island-moshonis, I long to see lesvos but due to visa and economic problems I could not see it. I will go to lesvos some day, for sure. Perhaps you some time renew the pictures or add new ones ? God bless you !

Atilla Sasi

Thank you so much for your wonderful information. We just returned from the island of Lesvos, and never in my 76 years have I experienced such awesome sights. We spent most of our time in Molyvos, and found the most delightful restaurant called Once Upon A Time. They made us feel so welcome, and they had a wonderful Thanksgiving dinner for us. We stayed at the Kaptains House and it too was full of charm. Loved the baths. Thanks again for all your help.

Hello Matt,
The Paradosiako in Petra is all it's cracked up to be. The owner said he has loads of customers as a result of your web site and all of whom assume that he knows you personally. He was quite embarrassed in fact, but what a winner despite it being a bit out of the way. Equally deserving of consideration was Zorba's, behind the Blue Sky Hotel near the beach.
We took a huge sheaf of papers downloaded from your website on Lesbos and found them invaluable. Nothing like having insider information, thanks to you. Keep up the good work and many thanks,
Dave Evans.

Dear Matt,

How can I ever thank you for all the wonderful and informative information I found on your website. I just returned from two weeks in Greece, 4 days of which were an organized tour and the remainder on my own. Believe me, I would not have been able to be so comfortable traveling on my own if it had not been for your guide.

I had never even heard of Lesvos until I read your guide. What an exquisite and unique place. I was very pleased with the help I received from Anastasia at Erresos Travel. I even met her when I picked up my car. Everywhere I went I mentioned your name..... Many people are so thankful to you for the promotion you have given them via the site.

I purchased a beautiful 22kt gold ring from Byzantine Jewelry, I ate at the Byzantine in the Plaka, I stayed at the Attalos Hotel in Athens, the Blue Sea Hotel and the Delfinia in Lesvos. And oh the was better than the next.

I just can't say enough good things about all the work you have done to promote the country of Greece and believe me that is exactly what the woman, Penny who runs the "Once Upon A Time in Molyvos" restaurant said also.

Continue to spread the good news and I certainly will do my part in sharing the website with anyone I know who plans to visit Greece.

Most sincerely,
Jean Fogarty

hello Matt,

I found your website while looking for info for a recent trip to Greece with
my 13-year-old daughter. Based largely on your recommendations, we spent a
couple days in Athens and five days on Lesvos. It was a great trip; Lesvos
was wonderful, especially early in the season (last week in March) when we
went there, as there were relatively few tourists.

Next time you revise the Lesvos pages, you might point out that many of the
hotels and restaurants don't open until late April or May. It was not a
problem to find places to stay or to eat, but if someone is looking forward
to a particular hotel or restaurant, they might be disappointed early or
late in the season.

But any inconvenience is more than outweighed by seeing the island without
crowds. There was no problem finding rooms, and people are incredibly
friendly and hospitable. And the wildflowers, green olive groves, and deep
blue sea were fantastic...even when it rained.

You don't mention the port of Sigri in your site. We passed through there,
and had a late lunch at a restaurant by the harbor, a square white building
(don't remember the name). Although the food on Lesvos was generally quite
good, this particular meal almost brought tears to my of the best
meals I've ever eaten anywhere, anytime. Check it out next time your there.

Thanks again for building and maintaining this wonderful website. I'll
certainly spend some time there before my next trip to Greece.


Ed Baxter
Yerevan, Armenia

Christos Anesti!

Dear Mr.Barret,
My sincere compliments with your enchantingly informative site on the village of Vathousa.
If I were a rich man I would take my presbyter there for a holyday.

Yours truly,

+ Stephan

S.F. Bakker

My wife and I were in Lesvos from May 25-June 3, and in Athens June 3-5.
We were birding on Lesvos on our own with Richard Brook's excellent book,
but also seeing and enjoying Lesvos. It was my first trip to Greece, and
your web site really helped us find the interesting restaurants on Lesvos
and in Athens.
We stayed at the Malemi in Skala Kalloni, but traveled all over the island.
We ate in
Skala Kalloni: Medusa, Heliotropio, Warm Nest, Sampo's, Dionysus, Ostria
Molivos: Captain's Table
Skala Eressos: Sappho, Cafe Marianne, Souvlaki Shop
Sigri: Seguro, Remezzo
Plomari: Taverna Platanos
All were very good!
In Athens, we stayed at the Plaka Hotel, and had good meals at Psarra, Cafe
Milton (try it!), Platanos, and Daphne's.

Again, thanks a million!
Dick & Mary Jane Wilkins
Newark, Delaware

Dear Matt,

Great web sites on all of Greece! The Lesvos information is truly a treasure. Your contribution to the country's tourism is truly great.

I am in the business of renting vacation houses and condos in Greece. So far in Lesvos I have been renting a top mountain house in the village of Anemotia. Primitive environment indeed, but some people enjoy such settings.

I would like to see some information on the village of Anemotia where they have some of the older churches on the island (St. George) and other items, such as the "Anemotisio Paximadi"

If this is possible I'd be happy to send you pictures.

Although now in Boston, my family is originally from Lesvos and I am a faithful annual Lesvos summer visitor.

Frequently I give personal tours of the island to my goups form the U.S. Therefore, I am very impressed by your extensive research of the island.

Thank you for taking the time to read this.




I just want to say that I have never seen a site ( so useful
for my holiday! (going to Lesvos next friday) Finally a site where someone
uses his own opinion, great work!

Phyllis Buyserd

Hi there!

We are a Norwegian couple who have traveled to various parts of Greece every year since we met in 1996. We have been reading your comments and taking your suggestions from for a couple of years now.

One of the things we learned from visiting your web page, was that Lesvos is an essential island to visit if you are a lover of all things Greek. So right now we are in an internet cafe in Molyvos, having been overwhelmed by the desire to contact you to say how spot on your advice has been.

First, we came to Mytilini and checked out the Navagio restaurant. It must be one of the best eating places in all of Greece! (Second only to the Castello in Parga, Epiros). Mytilini was just as great as we had envisaged after reading your comments about it.

Molyvos is, as you say, a much quieter place with a completely different breed of tourists, compared to most Greek resorts. We are staying at the Sea Horse, which, as you say, is "pretty darn nice". Yesterday, we ate at the Captain's Table and were not disappointed. The captain had fished a lovely bream out of the water and prepared it to our hearts' content. We also had a nice lunch at the Octopus. The whole ambiance of the harbour is just what we look for when we travel in Greece.

Tomorrow, we are going on a trip around the northwestern part of Lesvos, and we cannot resist the temptation of going to Xidera to see your "hometown" in Greece. We like to visit small, tucked-away places, and practise what little Greek we have managed to learn so far.

Next week we are going to Nafplion in the Peloponnese, a part of Greece which gets far too little publicity considering all there is to experience there. Last year, we spent almost three weeks driving around the peninsula. Even in that time, there were several interesting places we lacked the time to check out. We really feel that Peloponnisos, and particularly Nafplio, is essential to any Greek lover. It is the most beautiful city in Greece (well, we think so anyway) and it has a wonderful, relaxed atmosphere. If you want information about it or Peloponnese in general, we can supply you with plenty. Also make a note of the name Palamidi Travel. They helped us no end getting tickets, accommodation etc. in the area (and anywhere else, really). We became great friends with the young couple who run the agency, Fanis and Vasiliki, whom we are meeting again this year.

In conclusion, we are very grateful for the advice you have given us and think it only fair that you should at least get a thank you in reward. And if you are crazy enough to want to go to Norway, we will help you in any way we can. But in our experience, if you love Greece, Norway is a country you want to leave as often as possible.... :-)

We are:

Leiv Gunnar Lie, male, 33, newspaper journalist (the name looks like a joke but isn't). Email:
Merete Skeibrok, female, celebrating her 39th birthday at Navagio, copywriter in an advertising agency. Email:

Have a nice summer! With any luck, you will be spending it in Ellada... :-)

Leiv and Merete

Thanks for contributing to my great holiday in Lesvos from which I have just
Your web site was an endless supply of useful information, armed with which,
made our stay very enjoyable indeed.
We have visited the Greek islands many times before, so this sometimes makes
it even harder to find a new island of interest.
Lesvos was ideal, lots to see and do, but not too many tourists, and if you
go far enough a field, hardly any at all!
We made our base in Anaxos, which we found to very nice and ideal for
regular travel to Molyvos and Petra for their superb restaurants.
Although to be very fair, we found a number of excellent one's in Anaxos
itself. If you should venture that way in the future, you should try the
Aggelos taverna on the beach front. We thought that they served traditional
Greek food of the highest standard.
If anybody should be on a budget, the Moutsos taverna at the other end of
the beach provided good food in a traditional Greek family atmosphere at
amazing prices!
Thanks again for all the information we gleaned from your web site. I shall
be back again before our next venture.

Best Regards.
Steve Field.

Hi Matt

I visited Lesbos in July this year and I have already booked again for next year.I must congratulateyou on your web pages. I wanted a traditional Greek holiday but where food was concerned I didn't want just the chicken soulaki and chips usually on offer from Greek restaurants. I tried most restaurants in the harbour of Molivos and I can say without doubt that for a class meal along with a great atmosphere there was no better place than the Galley restaurant which is first restaurant in the harbour. I visited the Galley both lunchtime and evening 7 times in my 14 nights stay. Classic dishes such as Mozzarella Chicken, Char grilled Lamb in a red wine, rosemary and garlic sauce followed by the homemade deserts were out of this world . As for lunchtime a plate of mixed starters along with a bottle of house wine went down a treat. I have to say all the restaurants were very friendly and all the food was excellent however I recommend next time you visit Matt you must try the Galley.

For a excellent drink late until the morning (6.00) there is no better place that the Manta Bar which is situated on the main Market Street

Best Wishes and keep up the good work.

Dave Lazarous

Hi Matt
Just a quick word from Pat & Brian from the Isle of Wight, England, as we
haven't been in touch with you for about a year. Visited Lesvos May (2002)
this year again and as usual it was great. Have friends in the village now
and get a really warm welcome (I get more hugs while there than I ever get
at home). Lesvos is we think unique. In October we went to Thassos but it
just wasn't the same for us. Our friends say that were 'Lesvos orientated'
and think that they are probably correct. We have been to eight other
islands but there is (as far as were concerned) nowhere to compare with
Lesvos for it's wonderful, friendly people, of which, we haven't found the
like anywhere else, breath-taking scenery ( have you been there in May, this
year was spectacular with the spring flowers in abundance), and as we are
keen walkers there is great walking country, and I am perfectly safe if I
want to go off on my own. We had to learn the walks through trial and error
when we first went there, although there is a walking book these days.
Really hope the Island doesn't get spoilt. This we do worry about, having
been to other places that become too commercial.
We would love to spend more time there and have considered a holiday home so
that when we retire we can spend 3 or 4 months of the year there. Preferably
in the mountains by Petra. We see so many 'cottages' falling into disrepair
in these villages it seems such a pity but have no idea if they are ever
sold, who to contact or what the procedure is. Any idea's you can pass on.
Wouldn't want to live there though as we live on a beautiful Island in the
south of England (my husband was born here), but it would be nice to split
ourselves between our two favourite islands.
Didn't visit Xidera this time as we went there twice last year, thought we
would go again next year. We shall be going to Lesvos again in May 2003,
can't wait, already talking about it. We are going to Lefkas in September
but I want to change to Lesvos again, but we have friends coming with us.
However after that it will be Lesvos permanently for our summer holidays,
Everywhere else is a disappointment these days. During the winter we visit
Germany (two or three times). The Rhine area. Again we go off walking and
over the years have discovered some really nice walks through lovely
But as far as Lesvos is concerned we don't seem to have any interest in
going elsewhere these days, we have found 'our ideal place' and are content
to keep going back.

Pat and Brian Medley
Isle of Wight

Dear Matt,

We happened upon your Lesvos site and found it absolutely stunning; so wonderful in fact that it prompted us to try using "favourites" for the first time, where it is now firmly lodged. Do you have similar sites for other Greek islands or mainland destinations? We live in the Pelion, taking two holidays a year, one of which we spend exploring Greece. Thank you for the pleasures of exploring Lesvos virtually, in anticipation of the real thing. Also anticipating other such treats.

Judy and Michael Booth

Hello Matt! I, wrote you in april,about my plan to go to Lesvos,and I got some
nice info from you and your great site,we was there in june,living in molvos,high
up in the old town,it was a small familyhotell 5-6 room very nice and quiet
and a fantasic wye(?) over the town and the sea one that was very nice in the
evning when we waked down to eat, all people in the village was sitting outside
saying Kalispera sas,after a week some say Kalispera where you from,and so on
the greeks are very warm and nice people,we was planing to islandhopping,and
travel with ryggsäck,but it was no good island for ishopping,we only come to
Chios,We rent a car,so we saw all Lesvos, the best was Skala Eresoss,we rent
a room just on the beace only 100 meter from our favorit taverna Blue Sardin,The
sardeles was very good,I,m writing you from a very cold sweden We 10 below sero
celsius,the trees are white of ice and it is so beutiful, Take good care Peter
Tuviken Sorry for my english

Dear Matt,

This is four years after the fact, but better late than never! My husband and I went to Greece for his 50th birthday in October 1999. We based our whole trip on your website. The way you described each island sounded like the way we would have described it if we had visited there. Based on your recommendations we went to Lesvos. It was the most perfect vacation we have ever had (before or after). We meant to email you when we got back and tell you that everything you said was true - right down to Bennett's in Skala Eressos. Jeff and I spent his birthday at Bennett's and it was an equisite meal and evening. Anyways, we are finally writing now to say thanks. Jeff wanted to spend all two weeks there, but as I had never seen any Greek Islands, I really wanted to see Santorini so we went there for a few days at the end of the two weeks. It was lovely, but no comparison to Lesvos.

We travel once a year and we've since gone to Italy, Portugal, Mallorca and Bali. We now are ready for the Greek Islands again. Jeff wants to go back to Lesvos, but I keep refusing because it was such a perfect vacation I think a second trip will never be the same and I don't want to ruin any of my perfect memories. So, we've finally agreed on returning to Greece, but we're going to look at other islands. In particular, we're looking at Naxos, Paros and Sifnos to begin with. They sound from your website like our kind of islands. We're looking at going next Fall, but half the fun for us is the planning of the vacation (although to be honest we only really plan where we're going and not day-to-day details or places to stay - we'd rather wing it).

Since we haven't been there now for five years, can you tell us if there are any changes we should know about? How has the Euro affected the islands? (We found that it increased the prices of things in Italy - although Italy is more expensive than Greece anyways).

Any info you can give is much appreciated. And we'll be checking your website periodically to help us narrow down our options.

Thanks again.

Nina and Jeff

Dear Matt
Thank you for a wonderful web site. I am an novice at using the internet but found this site the easiest to use of many I have tried and the most informative about an island I have fallen in love with.
My husband and I had been to Rhodes about 10 years ago and stayed in Falaraki but were not impressed.
I love Greek culture, history, food and find the language fascinating. I have therefore tried for the last ten years to persuade my husband that we should try another island. I eventually succeeded. Last May (2002) we visited Lesvos. (Though I could only persuade my other half to go there for a week). What a different experience. My husband fell in love with the place. He is now learning to speak Greek. We have booked to go again this September (2003). We were going to visit again last September but my husband also hurt his back. Unfortunately a hot spring would not have healed him and he has had to have surgery. However, we will try the springs at Eftalou again as like you we found them closed when we visited.
We stayed in Petra. Found the Greek people warm and welcoming and the food adorable. When we visit in September this year we will try some of the restaurants you suggest. On our trip we used "The Lazy Fish" on most evenings as the owners father cooked the food and was always generous with the portions! It is a very basic restaurant on the edge of the village square and right on the seafront. We like basic and authentic food and that is what we had here.
We did visit some of the island but now have a great deal more to see and re-visit what we missed now that I have found your web-site. We may even try booking direct next year as the suggestions you have made for flights and accommodation sound so appealing.
Thank you once again for this wonderful web site. I am going to use it more and hopefully persuade the other half to visit Athens at some point and many of the other wonderful Greek islands and sites.
Yours gratefully
Maria Graves

Hi Matt

We live on Lesvos thanks to you and we've often meant to e-mail you and let you know but never got around to it until now. We've lived here in Ag. Varvara, near Plomari for nearly 18 months now.

We decided to sell our business and an old farmhouse we had renovated and move to a Greek island, now that the kids had grown up and were getting on with their own lives.

We had already been to lots of lovely islands for holidays, but they were all far too small to live on all year round. We had the impression that at the end of the Summer season the last off these islands turned the light off till next year!

We had also been to Crete, lovely too, but we wanted something a bit less commercialised and somewhere which had retained it's Greek culture and didn't relief on tourism too much, and obviously an island big enough to be able to live on all year round.

We had never heard of Lesvos until I came across your web-site about 4 years ago. So we came out here to have a look round May of 2000 we did a fly drive so we could tour the island for a week, it didn't take us that long to decide it was ideal. The second day we were here we found a perfect plot, wonderful view, quiet location and 55 olive trees. So the rest of the holiday we just relaxed and explored. Then in August we came back to sign all the purchase papers and pay (in cash!) for it and to arrange with the architects what we wanted built. We basically left them to it, much to all our friends disbelief! They kept in touch via e-mail during the building process and we transferred funds when they needed it, our friends all though we were mad to trust that we would find a house built when we got back. We sold our place in England and left 15th August 2001, a year after purchasing the plot. We drove across France, Italy then into Greece and toured the Peloponnese for a few days before catching the overnight ferry to our new island home, arriving on 1st Sept. 2001 with our dog Bob.

We were a bit worried with all our family and friends warning ringing in our ears as we drove up the track to what we hoped would be our house, but there is was! There was no glass in the windows yet and the floors needed to be finished off, but hey! This is Greece!

We've often said we need to find you when you are over here to thank you, we wouldn't be here if it wasn't for you so we would love to at least buy you a drink one day.

Let us know when you will be back on the island again and we could meet up.

Hoping to hear from you, but if not please accept our heart-felt thanks for introducing us to this wonderful place, your web-site actually changed our lives!! Many thanks

Peter & Belinda Scammell

Dear Matt .........I have traveled twice to Athens and the islands, and had an
incredible time there, after scrutinizing, and printing out info from your wealth of info on Greece.......... We first stayed at the Electra Palace in Athens( the suite balconies look directly at the Acropolis) and Cavo Tagoo in Mykonos in 1998....
Solely on the basis of your enthusiastic info on Lesvos, I took my late wife there in 1999 to the hot springs, and then to Santorini. As much as we loved Mykonos and Santorini,
Lesvos was a real find, a unique trip.(we stayed at Sunrise hotel, and went to Eftalou springs everyday, and traveled around 3/4 of the island). .........Anyway, I could go on and on, but I just wanted to thank you for your inspired website and for your personal stories.
On a personal note, my wife passed in 2000, and I often think how much she loved all the nature and beauty in the islands, and felt a lot of tranquillity and spirituality there. I have happy thoughts thinking about our final adventure together.
Anyway, thanks for writing your travels and opinions in a website. And for having a good sense of humor and of travel priorities. It inspired us to further our adventures, and answered every kind of practical question . I wish there were websites about other destinations written like yours, but I haven't found any in years of websurfing.................I am planning to go back with my companion, probably in Sept., tho I was thinking maybe May/June, maybe Lesvos and another island............Happy Travels and Best Regards, Bill Good
PS.......Are you still getting the opportunity to travel?


Me and my fiance had a brilliant time in Lesvos, thanks to your guide we rented
a car for 4 days and went just about eveywhere, Sigri and Plomari seemed our
favourite destinations, we didn't seem to find a lot for us in Mytilini itself,
but the pottery shops in Mondamdos were to die for and you didn't make much of
a remark on that!! We had a lovely beer break in Antissa, where the locals
seemed to very keen on tourists. Some of the beaches west of Anaxos were also
so quiet and private...I think this is worth mentioning. As far as your raw
sardines are concerned, I DO love sushi type things and I did try the "fresh"
raw sardines in Kaloni but I did have a terrible and unexpected stomach
disaster soon afterwards (any suggestions about something REALY good??) I think
I plan on going back with my (now) Husband and enjoying this that
we've learned a couple more phrases that the obligatory "efharisto"

Yours, Cheryl Shepperd (U.S.A and England)


We just finished reading most of your Lesvos site. Fantastic. Quite an
effort. Your enthusiasm for Lesvos has prompted us to alter our travel
plans and start (and possibly finish without leaving) our trip there.

We have travelled frequently in Greece since 1984, and lived in
neighboring Turkey for five years. The Aegean islands have been on a list
of places to see for many years, but something always came up.

We'd like to thank your for your efforts and wanted to let you know how
much we've enjoyed reading your descriptions.

Tim & Carolyn Armstrong

Hi Matt,

Just came back from Lesbos and had a wonderful time. We'll certainly go back!

One restaurant that's not in your guide is in Skala Sikamineas. We had excellent Mussels Saganaki and Shrimp Saganaki there. I don't know the name, but it's the white-and-blue restaurant on the far right when you're facing the water. You can't miss it, it's right on the corner.

Just before you enter Skala Sikamineas, there is a small road to the right with a sign 'Kagia'. It leads to a delightful beach with trees and, at the end, two tavernas. It's really nice and quiet.

We enjoyed an excellent swim and great food at To Limanaki before taking off from the airport. The water at that beach was so excellent, the best in Lesbos or; fresh but not too cold, and amazingly soft on the skin. It made it very hard to get on that plane, though...

We also had excellent food in the nice harbour of Panagiouda which is a very nice place to have lunch.

A very nice little mountain village is Filia, near Skalohori. Check out the village's biggest kafeneion, next to the church/monastery. Nothing has changed there for the past fifty years! Even the jukebox is authentic.

Good luck with your website,

Susanne Bulten

Hi Matt,

We had a nice week at Lesvos thanks to your precious guide that we had printed prior to leave France. So, first a bif thank you for your nice help.

We really enjoyed the Vatera beach hotel and its owners, the Olive Press Factory in Molyvos and also a small place that you do not mention in Skala Eressos : Hotel Galini, a peaceful place well located and we prefer small places (the Heliotopos is not well located !).

We enjoyed enormously the quality of the food at Sappho’s in Skala Eressos, obviously the best diner we had during the week and probably one of the great meal I had this year, french cook stars included! We also liked the fishes at the Captains table in the harbour of Molyvos (Nice people too) better than the Eftalous restaurant, the place is very nice, much better than the food we got. A nice place to test when you go to Plomari is the ‘Blue sea’ restaurant at the end of the beach of Isidoro, nice fresh vegetable and fish product in front of the blue bright sea….. The small beach of Tarti close to Plomari is great. Also in the evening at Mytilini you can drive 5 km north and enjoy a nice fish diner in the harboug of Panagionda. The best Psaro taverna is the one in the middle with blue chairs (and full of greek people).

You might give more emphasis to the extraordinary museum of archeology in Mytilini : the new one restaured by the EC with the mosaic is a real splendor and need to be more pointed out in your site. Also the new museum of the petrified forest in Sigri is great and very easy to make these fossils and other geological mechanisms understandable.

Thanks again and have a good summer

Michel Picard

Dear Matt,

I realize it's been a while since I've last contacted you regarding my correspondence with Melinda and Theo about working with them at The Captain's Table. While they've seemed a bit taken aback by my interest in learning from them (surprise born of modesty, I suspect), they have graciously extended an invitation to me for a brief visit. I will be heading over to Lesvos on the 16th of June and staying for a couple of weeks. My husband, who has now read your web site countless times over, will join me for part of the stay. We both extend our heartfelt thanks to you for steering us in the right direction.

Perhaps you'll be in Greece, too, at that time?

Ronna Welsh

p.s. Without your enthusiasm for my research and your trust in my earnestness, I would have had some difficulty planning this part of my extensive work trip. You are one of a few outstanding people who have been willing to take time to help me reach out to others abroad. You have my sincere gratitude.

Hey matey!

Just back from a great week in Skala Kalloni specifically and Lesvos generally. Took a wad of printouts from your site with us and they greatly enhanced our visit. Don't think I'd have had the pleasure of sitting under the planes in Andressi one evening without your guidance and being steered towards the Medusa for dining from the outset was a boon.

Had a great time - thanks!



Just returned from two fantastic weeks in Skala Erossos.

Loved the place, toured extensively, and also loved Skala Sikiminias too. Is there any accomadation you can reccomend there for our next visit, please?

Cheers, David.

Hi, Matt

I just returned from two weeks bicycling (road bike) around Lesvos, carrying two panniers and my tent. I believe I covered at least 80-90% of all paved roads in Lesvos (and some unpaved ones!). Inspired by your website, I went to Xidera, as well as Pterounda and Revma and a host of other infrequently visited villages (like Akrasi or Ambeliko or Napi or Mistegna). You can imagine the faces of these mountain villagers when a single woman comes riding into town on a bicycle. It made for plenty of endearing conversations (in my elementary Greek). Quite an adventure.

Colleen McGuire (from New York and now having a second apartment in Thissio)


We just got back from our 2 week trip to Rodos and Lesvos…

Unbelievable. Lesvos was incredible and we followed the Matt Barrett guide the whole way.

The sea horse, the captains table, the octopus, hotel vatera beach, vafios, the atos…

Everything was great, except I thought the Blue Sea in mitilini sucked.

We had a great trip without 1 bad meal cause of your site.

Where do u want that donation sent to?

Also, don’t know if you’ve been there, but in Rhodes old town theres a place called Kostas…a family owned joint, run by Illias.

This guy cooked the best food and was so nice. He actually started crying talking to us about his father who used to run the place but was run over by a kid on a moped a few months back.

Thanks a million.


Hi Matt
I just want to say thank you very much for a splendid and useful guide
to Lesvos. We're a small family who goes there next month and many of
the things you write about are not in any other tourist guide. Also the
site is very easy to navigate. The only bad thing about the guide is
that now I regrete I didn't buy a two-weeks stay instead of one :-)

Once again: Thanks a lot!

All the best
Thomas Tiedje
Copenhagen, Denmark

Hello Matt,

thank you for your beautifull webpages on Lesvos !

It's over 15 years ago that we visited the island, but the stories and
pictures brought it all back to life. My wife was pregnant at the time and
when we went on our litlle trips inland, she was treated as a long lost
friend, even with drinks and something to eat. I was not expected to pay for
them !

We stayed at the hotel near the harbour in Molyvos, and had a very good time

The best memory is a visit in the afternoon to a small village where we met
an old man outside the taverna. Our knowledge of the Greek language was
nill, as was his English. But with a little dictionary and sign-language we
had a conversation going. When we left, he told us to follow him to his
house, where a big rose plant bloomed. He took his time to get a pair of
siccors and made a small bouqet of roses to hand over to my wife. We dried
this and it is still in our house in The Netherlands.

As I type this, my wife and two daughters decided we will have our next
holiday in Lesvos again, and who am I to contradict them ?

regards, Leo.

as for the Ouzo: I think the term "radiating" is correct.

Hi Matt

My name is Athan Dion (Athanassios Dionyssopoulos). I am 47 years old, teacher and I own the "Carpe Diem" Houses & Apartments ( ) in Ariana of Kalloni.

After having been visiting often your sites, paying attention of your work about Lesvos and Greece and having been informed about you, I feel a heavy obligation inside me and respect to express my own (and on behalf of the Greeks they do or don't know you) the BIG THANKS FOR YOUR REAL AND WARM LOVE ABOUT OUR HOME COUNTRY.

Just a few ( Greeks or not - for me you deserve the first word, the underlined one, of this parenthesis)) have approached in a such a close, tender and human way our country and especially Lesvos.

I expect to meet you soon. Please, tell me when your are going to come to Lesvos to offer my Hospitallity.



tel 22530 23852

or 6973 496311

Lovely site, and with enough on it to keep me entertained for hours and even days!! Thank you for putting this all together. It makes me miss my Dad, who was like Danny Thomas, even though he was Greek, not Lebanese!

If we ever do get to Mytilini, it will be because you have given us the best way to go and such good tips. God Bless


Hello Matt,

My family and I just returned from 3 weeks in Europe. We decided to spend a week in Greece, largely because of what I had read on your Greece webpage. We stayed at the Attalos hotel for 2 nights, then caught the overnight ferry to Lesvos where we rented a car and stayed at the Sea Horse Hotel in Molyvos for 5 nights. We really enjoyed our time in Lesvos, and your advice was very good. Thanks for the time and effort you have put into your excellent webpage!


Michael Schindel

Portland, Oregon


Thinking back on my trip to Lesvos two years ago, it was the best trip of my
life thanks to your experiences and helpful ideas. We stayed at the Sunrise
Hotel which turned out to be perfect. What great vistas of the Aegean Sea
and Turkey. My one week vacation turned out to be three and you won't
believe it,but, the girl I met in Greece is now my wife.

Thanks Matt for giving me and others the true picture!

P.S. Any suggestions on the best places to live in Greece? :-)


Dear Matt
Thank you for your incredible website.Back in 1985 I backpacked around
mainland Greece plus the Islands of Ios and Paros.Last year I used your
guide to take my family to Corfu(there are still wonderful parts!) and
this May(2003) to Lesvos - an island not widely known in Britain.Thanks
a lot!

Just got back from Lesvos and wanted to pass our many thanks for your help
and website. Erosos Travel (Maria and Elaina) in Mytilini were wonderful
travel agents who made our trip economical, smooth sailing and trouble free.
No worries about accomodations, flights, etc. All we had to do was enjoy the
people, history, communities, eat and make merry....and that is not hard to
do in such a magical place. The Sea Horse in Molyvos, Vatera Beach in
Vatera, and Heliotopos in Eresos Skalla are definitely great places to stay.
And besides where else in the world can you drink fresh cool water right
from out of the rocks all throughout the island.

Best wishes from Gerry and Terri

Hello, Matt. I am a fan of your website, which was basically invaluable to me when I planned my first trip to my homeland as an adult last October. I spent 15 days there, and my plan was to do 10 days in Lesvos, my paternal ancestral island, and 5 days in Athens, where my relatives live. You may remember sending me an e-mail with a bunch of great tips and ideas.

I ended up making it a more even split (8 days in Lesvos) because my relatives were so generous and hospitable. I had the time of my life and now aspire only to return as soon as possible (Easter '05). I can't thank you enough for your comprehensive, insightful, outrageously useful material. David over at the travel bureau was also incredible and will be my exclusive go-to guy for all upcoming trips.

I'll let you know about the next adventure. It looks like my next destination is Crete, even though Lesvos absolutely blew my mind to the extent that I now hope to retire there (I'm only 41, so that's a ways off.)

Yiasou, Mattheo. Eisai leventis!

Greg B, Communications Specialist
Connecticut Hospital Association

Hey Matt, a few years ago finding Eleni from Eressos travel was a miracle. She has been incredible. Last May I stayed at her parents place and it was perfect. I do have two questions and a comment. One, do you know any places to stay in Meteora. and Two, can I get from Lesvos to Thessalonki or vice versa in May without going through athens. ALso, can I get to Turkey from Lesvos without going through Athens.

WHen I was in Skala Eressos last May we found a incredible dining experience. A restaurant named Filema. The food was like heaven, every night it was packed and we even had to order the dinner we wanted the day before one night do to the crowds. The owners were so full of joy and love. I am still craving the dinners that I had there. Frank

Hi matt we visited lesvos july 04 for the first time,I cannot really put in words the impact this wonderful island left on me.I have never felt the need to go back to anywhere and see more,but lesvos,I can't wait for next year.As you can gather I am hooked,we stayed in anaxos,we dined mostly at a small taverna on the front called aggelos,the food was superb,the best peppered steak I have ever tasted.I loved the quiet little village of anaxos,but molyvos blew my mind,surely this is where gods live.We also hired a car,explored skalla kalloni,mandamados,eftalou and the coastline leading down to mytilene,didn't have the courage to drive into the capital.Anyway I must not divulge,what I really need to ask you,as I intend to explore some more next year.Although our base will once again be our little anaxos.I would like to visit sigri and vatera,but as you recommend a lobster meal in sigri we would like to stay overnight,could you tell me of any rooms we could pre-book in sigri to avoid disappointment. regards Paul
P.S. great website

Hi Matt,
just back from our 1st visit to Lesvos. Decided to try this island due to
your obvious enthusiasm for it. Had a car for our 2nd week but despite
covering 800kms. only got to know the northern part of the island, we
absolutely loved it. Met a chap in Vatoussa who knew you named Andraes. Used
a lot of your guide for eating out, only poor meal was at the Captains
Table, the fish was either old or overcooked maybe both. This is one island
we will return to, thanks, Maggie & Bob

Hey Matt,

Do to your site I first went to Lesvos a few years ago and thanks to the gracious hospitality of Lena I keep coming back. Last year while in Skala Eressos I had the pleasure of dining at a restaurant called Filema. Family run, fun in a quirky way, with food to die for. We are still taking about this place and deaming about the dinners we ended up eating every night while staying there.

Dear Matt:

Thanks to your helpful web page, I visited Lesvos last
June. After ten years of travel in Greece, I must say
that was the greatest island I could have visited.

I am 54, a lover of Greek antiquities who likes
nothing better than a real down-home kafenio or ouzeri
by the water after a hard day visiting ancient sites.
Lesvos was the real thing, authentic, beautiful, with
great food and ambience.

Can you suggest other islands that this Lesvos-lover
would like. I really trust your judgment!

John Kostas

Hi Matt,
I went to Greece the last two weeks of April and had a FANTASTIC time!  Thank you for the wonderful information on  your website.  In Athens my friend and I stayed at the Attalos Hotel and everything was great.   I do believe our room was one of their premium rooms and had been arranged by Patra at Fantasy Travel.
Traffic in Athens is something to experience.  Rather like an E ticket at Disney World.  On our first cab right from Attalos Hotel to Pireaus, the cab driver was swerving in and out of traffic, speeding, talking on the cell phone and acting like a mad man.  My friend and I were in the back seat.  Even with our seat belts on we were flying all over.  We looked at each other in disbelief and broke out laughing as neither of us had ever had such a cab ride in our lives and uspokenly agreed that if that was to be our last experience in life, we wanted to go out laughing!
We spent Easter on Lesvos Island at Aprhodite Hotel in Vatera.  There were only two other parties at the hotel, so it may have been rather quiet and  lonesome for a person traveling alone.  The owners and the hotel were good, and I would definitely visit again.  I did enjoy the Easter pagentry in Vrissa, the fireworks and BBQ.  The first time we went to the church everyone stared at us as we walked through the Village.  I am sure they were wondering if we were visiting family, friends or martians.  It is true - The Greeks have no inhibitions about staring.  It is a good thing I knew this before I went so as not to feel  uncomfortable or offended.  Maria from the hotel told us not to drive into the Village as we would get locked in, and we learned this the hard way.  We missed the parking  lot by the Gas Station, and I waved down a man from the village to ask for directions.  Perhaps you have met this gentleman.  His name was Jannis (sp).  A true Spartan as he told us.   He is an artist who moved to Lesvos a couple years ago and is restoring a house.  He also has a bar in Vatera.  He invited us to park in his yard, and despite our protests, we did ultimately follow him into the Village and parked there.  When we left, I was so disoriented that I could not find my way out of the village.  We asked directions from numerous people.  As most of these people did not speak english (and I know only about 20 Greek words) communication was difficult.  I even knocked on a couple doors seeking directions out of the Village.  Everyone we spoke to was very kind and helpful even though they appeared to question our sanity.
Driving on Lesvos was ok, but we did get lost a couple times (my friend can not read road signs nor maps and I was tired).  Please do not tell the people at Hahathakis Travel, but I once got lost and had to drive for nearly an hour on a donkey trail used to harvest the olives as there was no way to turn the car around.  On the edge of the steepest mountain cliff, the donkey trail had washed out.  I told my friend to start praying as it looked as if we might end up abandoning the car and spending the next 20 years of our lives paying for it.  I looked no where but straight ahead at the donkey trail as my nerves could not take the view over the edge of the cliff.  When we got back to the road, we had to stop and laugh hysterically to release the tension.  I am sure the roar was  heard for miles through the mountain valleys.  When we finally stopped laughing, my friend said that some people pay good money to go on 4 Wheel Jeep tours and we just took one for free in our little economy Fiat. 
I also enjoyed the two day tour Patra arragned for us to Nafplion, Epidavros, and Mycanea.  No one in Nafplion could understand one word of my Greek.  Not even when I tried to order a simple Greek salad in a restaurant.  This seemed rather odd as my attempts at Greek were understood everywhere else.   
Although I was nervous sending money to Fantasy Travel sight unseen, everything worked out perfectly.  There were a couple times when their slow response time concerned me, but I wonder if my perception of a slow response time was more of a cultural difference as the average American has serious expectations when engaging in an expensive financial arragnement with someone. 
If I take a second trip to Greece, I think I would return to Lesvos for 4 or 5 days then go to Naxos and Santorini for 4 or 5 days. 
Thank you for your help,


Dear Matt

Thank you for all your assistance. Our trip to Lesvos was great. We got to Athens a day early so we spent the day at the Acropolis and Plaka.  Then we took a fast ferry to Aegina and had a pleasant evening. The following day we visited Apollos temple which was absolutely mind blowing and I am not even an archaeology nut. Then we loaded up on fressh roasted pistachios and caught the 4 pm ferry back to Piraeus where we caught the Lissos to Mytilene. If you can't handle cigarette smoke you had better just hunker down in your room for the night! But , that is supposed to change on June 1. We will see!! Anyway, Yurri and Yanni Hahathakis were lights out dynamite. He was there waiting for us at the boat. After some quick paperwork we were in a brand new beautiful little fiat that I would buy if I could find one. I must have gotten 50 mpg. The only thing I would have changed was the Princess Hotel the night before we left ...... it wasn't real bad. It just did not make it. Anyway, Molyvos and the seahorse hotel and Dimitri were terrific. We ate and drank ouzo several times across the street in the Octopus, I very highly recommend this restaurant, Ask for Fortis and tell them Mr & Mrs. Bahamas sent you. Molyvos had to be one of the best places I have ever been in my life. We met Victor and Angela the yoga teachers from eftalou and ended up spending 3 mornings in the hot springs as they were getting ready for the season. Places were just beginning to open for the season. Then we were off to Skala eresos. Less was open here than in Molyvos. The highlights were Saulatso on the beach for a couple of dinners. But the Gem was Sammis. This guy is dynamite. The hummus was out of this world, the spinach and rice was unbelievable. Every dish was better than I could have imagined. We went back the next day to sit in the square and have a cappicino ....... it was the best cap I ever had. My wife doesn't drink them but I insisted and now she is hooked ...... on sammis cappicinos!!!
Just wanted to thank you and give you some of our highlights. Oh, also the petrified forest was very cool.

Help Support Matt's Greece Travel Guides
Do you enjoy using my site? Have you found it entertaining as well as useful? If so please show your appreciation by booking hotels through the travel agencies and the links found on my Travel Agents Page. The small comission I make on the bookings enable me to keep working and in most cases you won't find them any cheaper by searching elsewhere. You can also book at's Greece Page and they give me a small percentage on each booking.

Return to Index of Testimonials