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My eating experience in Naxos was a relatively good one. There
were places I will definitely go back to and one that I will avoid
forever. My favorite
restaurant was the Picasso Mexican Bistro and not just because I
had been traveling for two months and was weary of Greek food. This
was a really terrific Mexican restaurant, as good as any I have
been to in the USA, (and I go to a lot-it's my favorite food). Picasso
is owned by Debbie Richards and Stratos Perakis and after the first
margaritta and chips and salsa I was ready to commit myself
to eating all my meals here. By the third pitcher I knew that if
I did my life would be in danger. We came with our Slovenian friends,
Darko and Zonka and their kids who are not as into spicy foods as
my family is, but there was something for everyone and we all left
happy and they left with an appreciation of Mexican cuisine which
they had never tasted. If you have a yearning for jalapeno poppers,
chicken wings, burittos, tacos, sizziling fajitas, great nachos and a few frozen margarittas
then go here. It is easy to find. Just go to the main square of
Agios Prototikiou and it is on the next block, on the way to Agios
Georgios. You can e-mail them at sdperakis@hotmail.com
or see their menu at www.picassoismexican.com
Popi's Grill in the port is one of the most famous of the island
and except for a couple immigrants clearing the table the restaurant
is unique in that it is an all-girl staff. Single guys don't get
your hopes up because their average age is about sixty, but it is
run in an organized yet chaotic way and specializes in grilled meats.
What attracted me was the whole lamb and kontosouvli turning on
the spit and I dragged everyone back to it though they wanted to
eat elsewhere. The Lucullus Taverna(photo) is the most famous taverna on the island
mostly due to an article in the New York Times from 1998.The tavern,
the oldest on the island will
celebrate it's 100th Anniversary in 2008. It is located up the Old
Market Street on the way to the castle and is decorated with antiques.
All the small ouzeries
in a row on the waterfront had octopus grilling and a wide
variety of mezedes and you will probably be pleased with any of
them. If in doubt try Stis Irinis Cafenion-Ouzerie. There is also an Asian restaurant that was recommended to
us called East-West which featured Chinese, Indian and Thai food.
Be sure to visit Nikos Kokotopoulos, the owner of the Platia Iroon Taverna in Psiri, Athens who has his summer place in the Grotta neighborhood of Naxos Town. The restaurant is called Anemos and it is a snack-bar-ouzerie. Like Platia Iroon he has live rembetika music. If you are looking for a little traditional entertainment to go with your ouzo and meze or a place to hang out and drink and make conversation try this.
For breakfast in Agios Prokopios we liked the Golden Beach
or Xrisi Paralia Zacharoplastion (sugar-shop) mostly
because Anastasia (photo) and the other girls who ran it were so sweet and charming and also
because they had super-fresh eggs which came from their family farm that were delicious as omelets
or fried. It was also our hangout for after dinner because they
had a nice selection of local deserts and sweets, all home-made and lots of flavors of ice-cream
in case you wanted to top them off. The cafe is right on the beach
by all the restaurants and bars. When we moved to the Porto Naxos in town
we had their breakfast buffet which was more than ample. So ample
that we really did not need to eat lunch. Have their fresh local yogurt with Cretan Honey and the best frappes in town.
In Agios Propkopios there are a number of tavernas on the beach
that cater to Greeks and tourists and have wide menus that cover
the spectrum from souvlaki and mousaka to pizza, sometimes all in one
restaurant. In the Taverna Nikos we had a near religious experience.
We had looked at all the restaurants and settled on Nikos, mainly
because along with the kontosouvli that the other places had there
was a whole chicken turning on the rotisserie. We sat down and ordered
the chicken. When it came to the table it was cold, strange
because a few moments before it had been cooking. I went to
the rotisserie and sure enough the whole chicken was still there.
This was either a miracle like Jesus and the loaves of bread or
someone was pulling a fast one. I told the waitor that not only
was my chicken cold but it was able to be in two places at once
since it was still on the rotisserie. He apologized and took it
away, returning a few moments later with a piping hot chicken and
extra frenchfries (hiding the bite I had taken). I went back to
the rotisserie to see the magical chicken was still turning. But rather than harp on a restaurant that I did not like (as i just did) let me just recommend Spiros Taverna which I unfortunately did not hear about until after I left the island and is rumored to have the best food in Greece. According to Michael and Shannon Hadjis from Chicago: in our opinion (me and my Greek husband's) DOES have the best Greek food we have ever had. We tried this place based from your "sadly" missed experience on your website. Next time - go there! We could only compare the food to Aunt Crisoula's homemade food back in Athens. We ate there 4 out of 6 nights. Wished we had just done all six. YUM!
The traditional restaurant Platanos in the village of Aperathou
is next to a small church in the shade of a platanos tree and we
had a very nice lunch here during our journey around the island. It
is high in the mountains and cooler and they had a menu full of
local dishes. Try the kokoras (rooster) either grilled or in a red
sauce.
On the outskirts of the small town of Mesi Potamia is the very
nice taverna H Magi Thea owned by the charming Dimitrios Deoydes, where you can
find inexpensive local dishes in a beautiful setting. If you are
looking to escape the town for a real honest-to-goodness country
meal of fresh local meats and vegetables and good local wine in
a cool mountain setting with a beautiful view come here one night.
(If you drink be sure to have a designated driver to get you back
to your hotel). Good news for lovers of potatoes. Naxos grows potatoes
for the whole country and when they are sliced large and cooked
in fresh olive oil you will forget about all the french-fries you
have eaten before.
As
for bars and clubs there are many
choices and Naxos town literally
rocks at night. For Greek music
try the Loft. For sophisticated
tastes go to Vengera. For rock,
reggae and soul there is the
Kahlua Music Club at Agios
Prokopios and for the wild younger
crowd seeking that throbbing disco
beat there is the Ocean Club on
the road to Agios Georgios. Sante,
Rocks and Jam are three clubs open
late. There are plenty more so ask
your conceirge, waiter or anyone
else you talk to. We liked a bar called
Tha Katso in Protodikiou Square for no other reason than the draft
beer was big and cold and the waitor was friendly. They also had
a very large assortment of beers from all over the world so if you
miss your favorite you may find it here.
It is no coincidence that the district
of Psiri in Athens
which is famous for it's ouzeries and restaurants which feature
mezedes (snacks eaten with ouzo) is the neighborhood of the immigrants
from Naxos. Several of the best ouzeries are owned by Naxiotis including
Platia Iroon and Ouzerie Naxos and you can find their famous
sausages and cheeses on the menu there as well as in the General
Goods Store of Naxos, or the Geniko Emborio Eklekton
Proionton Naxos. During
the last days of fasting that lead up to Easter the whole neighborhood
of Psiri becomes a market for lamb, cheese and wine from Naxos.
Trucks and tractors filled will Naxos produce arrive in the city
by ferry. The streets are closed to traffic and stands are set up
and goods sold until Saturday evening when they magically disappear.
After the midnight easter service the farmers from Naxos return
to the ferry and go back to Naxos to spend Easter Sunday with their
families and friends. See www.athensguide.com/naxosmarket
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