Greece Travel Index Greek Islands
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Paros Restaurants |
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Thanks to Vicki Preston, the publisher of Paros Life and Naxos Life magazine who sent me these reviews since I have not spent enough time in Paros to eat at all the good restaurants there. For those who have ever thought about living on a Greek Island Paros Life will give you an idea of what it is like for the people who are actually doing it. With restaurant reviews and articles about a number of island topics there is no better way to be introduced to an island community. For information on subscriptions e-mail Vicky at info@paroslife.com
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Tango mar - Paroikia
Here are just some of the enticing dishes from the Tango mar menu to give you an idea of what Bora and Harry have in store for you: start with a Thai salad (grilled marinated chicken with rice noodles, fresh vegetables and Thai sauce) or Prosciutto salad (mixed leaves with prosciutto, pineapple, melon and sundried tomatoes served on a poppadom) or select something from the appetizers menu - Crystal Rolls (prawns, herbs, salad vegetables and peanut in rice phyllo paper roll
served with Thai dipping sauce), Falafel (deep fried chick pea balls with tahini sauce and lemon), Onion Bhajis or Chicken Satay. Follow with a Tango mar special pasta - the Linguine Caliente with chilli, garlic, olive oil, rocket and prawns, the Penne Broccoli with broccoli, cream, pesto and chicken breast or sample the Nasi Goreng with fried rice, Asian spiced fresh vegetables, fried egg and soy sauce. There are plenty of choices from the grill too: Tandoori chicken breast in Indian marinade with yoghurt sauce,
tomato, cucumber and poppadom, Tonkatsu breaded pork fillet with steamed rice and leaf salad or a Entrecôte steak with fat chips. But don't leave without dessert! With a choice of Brownies, Mille Feuille, Lemon Cheesecake or Crème Brulée, you might be stuck there for a while! |
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Aqua Marine - Aliki
Although his background is as the owner of the first ever video shop in Belgium, the proprietor; Denis, became interested in catering while helping out his partner Patricia who co-owned a celebrated meat restaurant in the abattoir district of Brussels! Once the season is under way from 9.a.m. they offer a choice of full cooked or continental breakfasts popular with those renting rooms in the village on the south coast of Paros. Then throughout the day until 1 a.m. they provide anything from a coffee or coke up to a lavish mixed grill or, when supply permits, fresh mussels in their own juice and wine sauce, served with steamed vegetables. The regular menu includes items such as tsatsiki, taramosalata, saganaki and oven cooked feta as starters. Main courses include an attractively presented choice of salads, lamb or pork cutlets which arrive cooked to perfection, souvlaki, traditional sausage or Macedonian vegetables, pasta carbonara or bolognese. All main courses are served with fried potatoes and tomatoes, making them even better value. In addition to this Denis offers a small selection of fresh and inexpensive fish and this really summarises his aim to offer a limited but varied menu in order to maintain a high standard of freshness and keep his prices competitive. Something many appreciate in these days of ever increasing costs and unfavourable exchange rates. During the winter months Denis serves a variety of tempting “Speciality of the Day” dishes including beef in beer, chicken curry (some people organise their visit to the island to coincide with this being on the menu!) and jumbo prawns in ouzo plus wholesome, warming soups. As with everything he offers, the waffles and Belgian pancakes (or should I say “Crepe Bretone”?) are homemade and the bases are as delicious as the fruit or chocolate fillings. Aqua Marine is a perfect location to watch the sun setting behind Antiparos and enjoy a cocktail as the little brightly painted caiques return from their fishing trips to moor. There is a variety of settings and furniture styles to suit every taste from waterside tables and chairs to indoor settees. Classical or classic Greek music enhance the atmosphere and the notable absence of a television on the premises ensures that they will provide a refuge for those seeking to escape the sporting events that often take over many of the island’s eateries! Two computers offer free Internet access (WiFi is available too) to those enjoying a meal at the restaurant, or can be hired by the hour to non-diners. Open until the early hours, it is visited as a bar by many towards the end of the evening. Recipe: Mama’s Meatballs Denis has decided to share the much sought after recipe for meatballs with us. It was passed down to him from his mother and he has received emails asking for his secret! |
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Margarita’s Restaurant – Ambelas
This is the ideal place to bring the whole family as they pride themselves on being "kid and pet friendly" and there is an extensive, grassy playground where children can also eat if desired. A basketball hoop might appeal to the older offspring and a selection of board games ensure all the little ones will be kept amused for hours. The restaurant has undercover tables for those who prefer shade or for windy days, and many poolside tables for those who want to eat outside. These become lantern- and candle-lit by night to provide a romantic atmosphere. Roses adorn every table in season and the whole feel is relaxed, comfortable, clean and friendly. The surprisingly extensive menu contains unusually large selections in each section and ranges from traditional to innovative. Thirteen cold and fifteen hot starters include some we hadn't come across elsewhere like mackerel salad. A bit too salty for me but I can imagine it going well with ouzo. (I had to put that in or you would never believe all the superlatives in the rest and we were worried about getting thrown out of the food critics union!) Their homemade taramosalata is the best we have tasted in thirty years of enjoying Greek food. It came served with the best French toasts I have ever eaten (you see what I mean!). I don't know how something can be moist as well as crumbly and crunchy but they were! The potato salad was bursting with flavour as were the tomato and courgette fritters. Even the most familiar dishes like stuffed vine leaves, moussaka and the Greek salad were all much tastier than usual. More than fifteen types of salad include some unusual ingredients for example a Spinach Salad with raw spinach, rocket, orange segments, San Mihali cheese and sunflower seeds with a dressing made from balsamic vinegar, orange juice and honey. The next section of the menu is intriguingly entitled "For The Adventurous" and includes some dishes that were new to me like the Chickpea Balls with Prawns and the Tuna Fricasse (the dish we are used to enjoying made from Iamb). They have a large choice of cooked to order dishes including lobster chosen from a tank (could you?) and your meal can be finished off with a dessert and coffee. There is a modest selection of Greek wines as well as beers and soft drinks. Kiria Margarita who does the cooking insists on using only fresh and pure ingredients, never frozen meats or fish (with the exception of the prawns and then this is clearly marked on the menu). Margarita says that she loves cooking and wants every customer to be delighted with their meal and that she prepares each dish with love and from the look in her eyes I really believe that she does! Her charming daughter Stella speaks excellent English and is a member of the Paros Tourism Committee. Ramps make the dining and pool areas wheelchair friendly but the loo doorway might be a little too narrow. Buffet breakfast is served from 09.00 at 10€ for as much as you can eat and drink. A wide variety of herbal and fruit teas (including some made from fresh ingredients) are provided and homemade jams and marmalade complement the freshly baked rolls. Our lunch here was an occasion that we will remember fondly and repeat often. Prices are very inexpensive especially when considering the surroundings and facilities. Children's meals are available for 4.50 €. A huge field ensures that unless Ambelas hosts the World Cup, they will never run out of parking space. Located in Ambelas village on the northeast coast of Paros just 3kms east of Naoussa and signposted from the seafront. |
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Porphyra Fish Taverna - Paroikia
The long and narrow premises has many tables under the pergola to give shade outside, as well as a charming indoor seating area for those chilly evenings in the early and late months of the season. Tables nearest the sea offer a view of the world going by and the masts of the moored yachts while the seating nearer the dining room gives a more intimate atmosphere. Open only between the hours of 6pm to midnight, Yannis says he’d rather lose the occasional customer who wants lunch or a very late meal than compromise his high standards. Local vegetables and freshly caught fish are always used and only the best quality of frozen jumbo prawns are served. These days Yannis has handed over the diving to his son Kostas who brings the fresh clams, sea urchins and oysters that are available even in the quieter months of the year. He has broken with local convention by offering varieties of fish cooked on the grill that were previously only thought of as suitable for use in soup. Recommended, we’re told, in all the tourist guides including one from Argentina, quality and freshness are very important in ensuring that customers return year after year. The menu carries a plea that if anyone has any problem with their food to please let them know, even if it is because you didn’t realise that a cuttlefish has tentacles! Neither of us claim to be “a-FISH-ionados” (couldn’t resist it!) but the selection of types of fish and corresponding prices looked extensive but not expensive. The specimen we ate was grilled to perfection and the starters were delicious. Something we thought was a good idea for people who want to try more than one type of fish were some of the “Chef’s Specialities” on the menu - for example the “Poseidon’s Dish” which consists of grilled tope, tuna, cuttlefish, prawn and octopus (though this dish might not always be available on the menu in August). Another really good value option is the “Fruits of the Sea” with a half lobster, crawfish, jumbo prawn, oysters, clams and mussels all for 25€. There is also a selection of meat and vegetarian dishes both among the starters and main courses for those who are not drawn to fish and you can round off your meal with a small choice of desserts and coffees. This is a nice setting for a romantic dinner and the linen tableclothes give a luxurious feel that belies the very reasonable prices. Located on the Paroikia paralia (seafront road) between the ancient cemetery and Afros Yacht Services 10m from the Atlantik Supermarket. Closed off season. Tel 22840 23410. |
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Galatis - Naoussa
Under the magnificent eucalyptus trees this spacious taverna looks more like a well tended cottage garden with tables. The fountain, gold-fish pond, cheerful yellow and red check linen tablecloths all complete the happy country feel. We were very impressed with the menu; meaning both the choice of food offered as well as the booklet itself as they include a collection of A4-sized photographs of some of their more unusual dishes and the results are neither the often anaemic-looking home produced shots nor the “nothing like the real thing” professional job. It really helped us see what we would be ordering and make an informed choice. There is a very large selection of traditional Greek dishes, salads, pasta dishes, seafood, pizzas and peinirli. Also some of the dishes had a style more often found in Constantinople including the delicious Kessarias Pies which are small parcels of filo pastry filled with cheese and pastourma. Pastourma is finely sliced, very highly spiced meat; originally camel but now more disappointingly beef (I still get images of camels when I eat it and for days afterwards as the very distinctive aroma continues to come out of your pores! Avoid being the only person not to have eaten it!). Another treat was the Haloumi cheese with local pork and wine sausage. Something completely new to us was the Yiourtlu; a main course of pitta bread under pieces of either pork, chicken or lamb and topped with yoghurt, their own recipe of a tomato-based sauce and dusted with exotic spices. It looked so attractive it was a shame to eat it! There is an impressive choice of desserts and coffees plus some herbal teas. The wine list is an extensive selection from many parts of Greece. They open from midday through to 1a.m. The dishes are very reasonably priced and children are welcome. Many of the tables have their own pergolas and it was cool even in the heat of the day, plus there is a small but lovely dining room should the heavens open and during the winter months when Galatis will be open at least at weekends. All the dishes offered are also available for free delivery within the Naoussa area. And something else that got them top marks with us was a discretely placed bowl of dry cat food for the strays. Located approx 250m along the riverbed parking/nightclub road that runs at right angles to the Naoussa seafront bridge. Very close to the large car park and to the bus stop to Paroikia. Tel 22840 51726 |
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Sigi Ihthios - Naoussa
“Sigi ihthios” is an expression that means something like “No comment”. It literally translates as “the silence of the fish” and refers to the closed mouth grimace of someone choosing not to reply to a criticism – fish after all don’t talk! As this applies to the business, we are to understand that everything is certain to be so satisfactory that there will be no negative comments to reply to. A meal for two here costs about 30€. They take pride in catering to all budgets, and whether you want a simple inexpensive lunch or are flying in from Naxos in your own helicopter for lobster washed down with literally the finest wines in Greece, you will find it here! (While they have many well known clients, they are not name droppers, which is very refreshing!) We found the lunchtime setting on the Naoussa waterfront charming and enjoyed watching a bobbing fishing boat endearingly named “Our Lady of the Slow Moving” with the backdrop of the harbour curving round to the rooftops of the town that covers the hillside behind the new bridge. That was until we were taken through the kitchen to the “back yard” and realised that they have tables along one side of Naoussa’s beautiful “little Venice” harbour. No combination of superlatives can do justice to this area, so just go and see! The owner, Yannis, is the senior of the three full time chefs at Sigi Ihthios, but tells us that the second chef is better than him. That got our attention – what no ego trip?! Having started work at the age of 14, Yanni spent time at no less than twelve different restaurants, noting what worked and what didn’t and building up 17 years experience before opening his own place seven years ago. His twelve employees, he tells us, have been chosen because they are serious people who have something interesting to say if you want to start up a conversation with them. They politely and fluently explain the dishes and can also be depended on not to try and make a move on your girlfriend while you are in the bathroom! The restaurant has a fridge just for beer which is kept at exactly three degrees because that is considered the ideal temperature. Another chilled display cabinet shows the fresh seafood available and the choice is extensive. We never thought we would be waxing lyrical about “vegetables with rice”; it might sound boring but it was totally delicious – and can also come served with chicken or pork. Tender fillet of beef cooked in the local Mavrodafni wine or pork fillet in Samos wine are served with colourful slices of fresh vegetables and every dish is a feast to the eye as well as the palate. The shrimp pies of Philadelphia cheese and shrimps in crispy filo pastry were absolute perfection. All ingredients are local, fresh and of the highest quality, combined so as to be as healthy together as possible, rather than what will look nicest! Yanni says that instead of gaining five kilos plus on holiday – as most people do – if you eat here you will maintain your weight and improve your health. Until I tried the desserts I believed him! They are all homemade and include banoffee cream pie, chocolate mousse, strawboffee cream pie and Mille Feuille that – would you believe? – is baked only at the time of ordering! The word that stuck in our minds from this experience more than any other was “real”, as Yanni refuses to cut corners in any way, has a long-term business perspective, and intends to continue supporting the families dependent on his restaurant by offering excellence tailored to each customer’s individual tastes. Open at least ten months of the year, Sigi Ihthios is located on the Naoussa seafront to the right of the bridge as you face the sea, just past the cafes in the middle of the row of establishments nearest the church. Alternatively, go past the church and round to the right into the inner harbour area and their tables are the white ones immediately on your right. Tel 22840-51225. |
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Hibiscus - Paroikia
As well as the shaded and sheltered tables under the Ficus Benjamin tree, there are plenty of waterside tables where the sea breeze takes the edge off the lunchtime heat and at sundown they provide a good location to watch the hundreds of sparrows that flock to the tree and chatter busily in the bows. No one seems to be able to tell me what the birds are doing there, but I suspect the black, berry-like fruits may be part of the attraction and their antics make a charming sight, while the umbrellas below make sure that diners receive no unwanted souvenirs. Hibiscus’ recently re-modelled menu is very extensive and caters to all tastes. They have a large selection of pizzas and – very surprisingly – the light, thin crust still had a lovely soft texture even after we microwaved leftover slices the following day! Which reminds me to issue a warning about choosing the Focatsa bread with your meal – it is so delicious you may be completely full before your starters arrive! Usually no friend of this particular vegetable, I was apprehensive when they chose to serve us their homemade aubergine salad and aubergine parmezana but ended up being very glad they did. They were both really tangy, but in different ways, and made very tasty dishes. But the next dish was life-changing! No, not an exaggeration – it was so fabulous that we will be going back at regular intervals to get more! “Chicken in feta sauce” is the unlikely-sounding name for this dish, and I couldn’t imagine how chicken could benefit from being coupled with a very salty, sharp cheese. The feta used must be a very mild variety because the end result is of a subtly flavoured but unbelievably creamy sauce. It was creamier than cream! Totally delicious! Carmen the cook guards the recipe, and I don’t blame her! That was a hard act to follow, but the meat dishes cooked in individual ceramic pots are full of flavour and very tender. The potato au gratin was scrumptious and despite being laden with melted cheese, we didn’t need knitting needles to be able to eat it. Except when barbequed, all the food is cooked in an old-fashioned oven using olive wood (gathered when the trees are pruned) and this gives a special flavour to the meals. There is a large inexpensive selection of dishes in most categories including fresh fish, pasta, pizza, vegetarian as well as traditional favourites. The restaurant offers free delivery within the Paroikia area and will be open at least five days per week throughout the winter except over Christmas. Tel 22840 21849. |
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Peri Orexeos- Parikia
Customers have a choice of comfortable seating areas in either the main premises where the spit roasts gently sizzle as they are readied for the evening trade, or within the enclosed pergola-covered area on the square where, warmed by halogen heaters, you can watch either the world go by or the television as is your want. Originally from Thessaloniki, Georgos Peikos has lived and worked on Paros for eight years and if you have ever eaten at Kontes Restaurant or Hotel Livadia you may recognise him. This is his own restaurant which he runs with the aid of his charming Bulgarian wife Ivanga, son Ivan and daughter Sophia. Open for lunch from 12.00 and then all the way through until 24.00 every day (except Mondays until Easter), they can be depended upon to have a selection of soups and other warming dishes to help you keep out the winter chill. Homemade chicken soup, meat soup and patsas are available every day. The latter is made from beef hooves and tripe and is a traditional favourite among Greek people (especially at the end of a long night of partying when many Athenians make their way to the central meat market downtown for a dish of patsas at the stalls which stay open all night just for that purpose!) The remaining dishes in the display cabinet vary from day to day as the restaurant has many regular patrons who enjoy being able to choose from a wide selection. Every day there will be chicken, beef and pork dishes, but the recipes will be changed to keep our taste buds stimulated! Examples include chicken in Philadelphia cheese sauce, pork in prune sauce, beef kokkinisto, chicken and bacon pasta in cheese souffle sauce, meatballs a la crème as well as old favourites like bean soup, spinach rice, fava, chick peas, etc. All appetizers are prepared on the premises and our favourite was the tyrokafteri “hot cheese” which was tangy rather than peppery. The Russian salad was deliciously creamy and the portions are of a generous size. I have been told that the Peri Orexeos spit-roasted chicken is the best on the island. A selection of dishes made specifically to accompany ouzo ensure that their menu appeals to local and international palates. Very reasonably priced and decorated to provide an attractive location for entertaining, this establishment has already found its niche among the local diners. Tel: 22840-22115. |
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Agnandi Hotel - Krios
On our arrival at this beautiful setting, my friends and I were greeted warmly by the Food and Beverages Manager Mr Nikolas Lagos. A passionate “Bon Vivant” and talented sommelier, Nikolas seated us with a glass of Samian dessert wine to clean our pallets in readiness for the wonderful gastronomic journey on which we were soon to embark. After corking a bottle of Ktima Alpha 2008, a fragrant and fruity Sauvignon Blanc, Nikolas began to share with us his passion for great cuisine and fine wines. After viewing the menu, he went on to explain how all the major ingredients of the dishes were carefully researched and sourced from only the most reputable suppliers. Rather than a menu comprising of endless lists of generic dishes, there are around eight dishes offered for each course which are excellently balanced and accommodate everyone’s taste. After some minutes of conversation and a second glass of white, we readily agreed that Nikolas should choose our dishes and select an appropriate red for the main courses. Whilst enjoying the tantalisingly subtle notes of peach (or perhaps apricot?) filling our noses, a plate of grilled sardines and velvety fava topped with headily fragrant Santorini tomatoes appeared before us and proved to be just as delicious as it looked. Despatched heartily, the plate was replaced by a light green salad dressed with lobster vinaigrette and surrounded by mussels, prawns and scallops (such a treat to have scallops on Paros). Having tucked into a selection of exclusively made breads, (olive, sundried tomatoes, peanut and a variety of seeds and grains) with our first courses, we took a break and sniffed the very promising bouquet of an Obilos 2005 which had just been decanted to breathe. During a very pleasant intercourse, we were joined by our hero of the evening, Dimitris Pappas, Agnanti’s chef. After exploring the possibilities of many of the world’s cuisines, Dimitris was always drawn back to the Mediterranean, where the emphasis is on fresh quality ingredients. He and Nikolas have spent many evenings tasting endless meats, vegetables, seafood and cheeses before agreeing on those which do Dimitri’s dishes justice. Interesting and novel is a selection of different salts offered with each dish. With the salad, we were presented with a lump of blush-coloured rock salt and a tiny grater. Two hundred and sixty million years old (I can relate to that), this crystal, sparingly added to the seafood salad, made all the flavours burst into life on my tongue, then melted away as though it was never there. With renewed appetites we tasted the red, a cunning blend of Syrah, Cabernet and Merlot grapes, it was simply divine! A moment later the next dish arrived; a wild mushroom risotto laced with black truffle oil. As instructed, we added a few grains of smokey volcanic salt from Hawaii. The effect was stunning and rendered even me utterly speechless. A silence descended on our table, interrupted only by the chink of cutlery and murmurs of awe and approval. This really was a masterpiece. Our next joy was Scottish Angus beef fillet, grilled to perfection and served with gently spiced lentils and a lively dipping sauce, the ingredients of which remain a mystery as I lacked the nerve to ask. After one mouthful, our wine glasses chimed a salute to some of the most tender and savoury beef we had ever eaten. As the final morsels were consumed, a cut of Scottish Angus veal took their place, complemented by perfectly sauteed potatoes. The fillet was a hard act to follow, but we concluded that the veal carried itself admirably. Still thanking Nikolas for this truly exquisite culinary experience, we were joined by Agnanti’s general manager, Dimosthenis Leontis. Having created within his hotel a gourmet restaurant, he explained how he wanted to provide his guests (resident and non-resident), a high quality dining experience at affordable prices. I found the prices surprisingly reasonable considering the quality of the food and the excellence of the service. I look forward to sampling further delights at Agnanti and strongly recommend a visit. Tel: 22840-25106-7 for reservations |
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Magaya Beach Restaurant Bar - Souvlia Beach, Parikia
For a delicious meal, a few beers or a sunset cocktail, this truly is one of the most relaxing places on Paros. Even for those of us who live and work here year round, an afternoon at Magaya seems like a short holiday eons away from stresses and strains of the daily grind. Nikos, Vangelis and their staff are friendly, charming and though they clearly work hard, are very laid back, obviously enjoying the little paradise they’ve created here. Lulled into a pleasant stupor by soft chill-out music, waving banana fronds and a perfectly mixed mohito, we browsed the menu of Greek, Asian and Mexican dishes once again wishing we could munch through all of them but knowing the portions to be far too generous for that. I have thoroughly enjoyed every meal I’ve eaten here and can never decide whether to have one of my favourites or choose from the day’s specials for something new. Tempted by the sesame chicken and toying with the idea of their delicious falafel, I finally settled on fresh grilled bream and the Magaya Salad. Where do they find those delicate creamy avocados, does anybody know? My companion chose a Turkish shish kebab which proved to be perfectly spiced and deliciously tender. Lifting the succulent fillets of bream off the bone, I once again marvelled at the variety of people attracted by the idyllic ambience Magaya is known for. People of all ages and from many walks of life come here to chill out, dig the vibe or simply eat like kings. The relaxation and enjoyment is utterly contagious
and often enhanced by live events such as bands, Latin dance lessons on the beach and the occasional themed party in the evening. Appearing on July the fifth is the Cuban band, Latiniko. A group of very talented musicians and a great excuse to finish work early, have a swim then select another delight as pre-concert sustenance. Kewl! |
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Bakiri Tavern - Naoussa
After receiving a warm welcome from Eva our hostess, we were seated on her roof terrace where we took in impressive views of Santa Maria and Naoussa with the lights of Mykonos twinkling in the distance. Whilst tucking in to lightly casseroled green beans and a particularly crisp and refreshing Greek salad, Eva told us of her childhood in New York where her father privately tutored her in Greek history, cuisine and many other aspects of her heritage. “At the time,” she explained, “I just wanted to be an American teenager like all the other kids.” Having discovered, fallen in love with and eventually settled on Paros twenty five years ago, she is very grateful to her father for her knowledge and sensitivity to all things Greek, particularly food. Our main courses arrived so Eva gave us some time alone with a succulent joint of local chicken in a tomato and wine sauce and a generous heap of perfectly grilled and deliciously tender Parian lamb chops. One of the better local reds, the house wine went down well and was quickly topped up on Eva’s return to our table. She had brought with her a plate of home made dolmades; the best I’ve had in years and wrapped in soft young leaves of a vine growing a few feet away from our table. Eva told us that after many years in New York, how much she enjoys the fresh natural products still available on Paros. Whenever possible, all her ingredients are sourced locally and selected for quality and flavour. Fish appears on the menu only when it is fresh and locally caught. After enjoying a taste of Eva’s zucchini croquettes (highly recommended), I was very pleasantly surprised by her prices, I doubt that I could have produced such temptations cheaper at home. I shall definitely be dining at Bakari again, maybe see you there! Tel: 22840-53575 |
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Open Garden - Naoussa
Expert staff will deftly guide you through the menu’s delicacies, and this summer Open Garden also offers tantalizing finger food in a cozy lounge area in the garden, where you can enjoy a selection of coffee, tea, soft drinks and cocktails too. The Open Garden, in its fourth seaso in 2009, is Belgian-Greek chef Elda Molla’s third self-owned restaurant in Paros, after To Kafenio in Marpissa (1991-1994) and Kyma in Naoussa (1995-2005). She is passionate about her cooking and her considerable experience is enhanced by her eagerness to discover new approaches to time-honoured fare, with the exclusive use of natural fresh ingredients, which she herself diligently selects on a daily basis. The Open Garden has been known to host special live music events each year. A fervent music-lover herself, Elda has always given particular attention to seeking out the collaboration of artists whose expression is in tune with the surroundings and the atmosphere of the Open Garden. For the summer 2009 season, she was overjoyed to secure a series of Saturday-night appearances by Swiss-Greek Jazz vocalist Eva Kesselring. OPEN GARDEN, Naoussa - Paros |
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Dionysos Garden Restaurant - Paroikia
Stepping through a tiny ancient doorway into the courtyard of Dionysos, one finds one’s self in just such a paradise. Seven hundred years old, this charming old house is dwarfed by mature trees heavy with figs, pears and olives. Towering above the market street stands a magnificent palm, its trunk cloaked by a dense and lush mantel of aggroumbeli, its fragrant orange trumpets waving merrily in the breeze. Welcomed and seated comfortably by our hosts, Eleni and Antonis, we sipped an aperitif, content to enjoy fresh sweet smelling air and the chirping of birds in this enclave of peace within the scorched and dusty town. The menu is a well balanced selection of dishes, mainly Mediterranean with some an interesting fusion of Greek and French cuisines. Choosing was difficult, but eventually I settled on a Cock Yiouvetsi and my companion ordered Rabbit Stefado. After thoroughly enjoying a mouthwateringly fresh prawn and avocado salad (yes, really delicious!), our main dishes arrived. The rabbit was the first authentic stefado I’ve seen in years. Tender and succulent rabbit on a plate of pearly white onions in a light red sauce that was out of this world. My dish was a triumph! Instead of generic pasta, it was cooked with hilopitta from Thessaly with a slightly grainy texture which for my taste works better than the slimier version. Washed down with a full bodied velvety house red, the meal was excellent, so I shall definitely be visiting again for further investigation. Antonis and Eleni explained that for all the dishes they serve their guests, the emphasis is on authenticity. They chose their chef very carefully and source their ingredients thoroughly; even the humble feta is sent from Antoni’s home village. Their dishes come from all regions of Greece and their wine list has been compiled to complement them. They serve all the guests themselves, offering the kind of hospitality reminiscent of times long gone. Clearly no corners are cut at this great restaurant. I cannot fault the food or the service. Dionysos fills early and quickly, but if you have to wait for your table, ask Eleni to serve you a drink in the secret garden. The wait will be very pleasant and well worth it. Dionysos is highly recommended. Tel: 22840-25194. |
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Daphne Garden Restaurant - Paroikia
The chefs who come to work at Daphne each season have international experience, are often Cordon-Bleu trained, and bring their own special style and "flavour" to the modern Mediterranean cuisine served at the restaurant. Late August, in the busy market of Paroikia, the garden of Daphne is just the right place for a romantic get-away. Simple, but luxurious, the atmosphere in the courtyard of the historical mansion built in 1740 can still be felt. Discreet lighting, soft atmospheric music, and tasteful table-setting, all blend perfectly with the charm of another time. Daphne uses the freshest local produce wherever possible to create the mouth-watering à la carte dishes which include cheese flutes with melting smoked cheese or aubergine towers with creamy goat cheese and pesto to start. The slow-roasted lamb shank cooked in white wine, rosemary and garlic and served with creamed potato is a pure delight. And of course there are always a few daily specials – the steamed seafood medley, for example – which you will be briefed on by your waiter. The restaurant also features an extensive premium quality wine list as well as exotic cocktails and delicious desserts to complete the gastronomic experience. Daphne is often chosen for hosting events such as weddings (the seating capacity is 150), as the setting lends itself perfectly to a romantic and unforgettable experience. Tel/fax: 22840-22575. |
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Koukoutsi - Paroikia
When asked by our illustrious editors to check out “Koukoutsi”, behind the Agricultural Bank in Paroikia, I called a friend suggesting an alternative to Sunday lunch and we gaily traipsed across the square, drawn towards the sounds of music and laughter and the irresistible aroma of grilled fish. Having visited the place years ago when it was called “Nostos”, I was pleasantly surprised to discover my old friend Paraskevas manning the bar and generously decanting raki to his customers who, to put it mildly, were in an extremely good mood! Quickly welcomed and seated, we were presented with a flask of suma and plates containing salad, black-eyed beans and the most deliciously succulent mackerel I’ve tasted this summer. Enjoying the company of many familiar figures, we were soon on our third flask and tucking into a marvellously creamy potato salad with its plump, firm capers popping in my mouth with each bite. Sunday’s rather cool temperatures were rapidly forgotten as we chatted with friends enjoying their first days of freedom after another arduous season and enjoyed the old Greek songs playing in the bar. It reminded me of the days when Paroikia was a fifth of its current size and still a pukka Cycladic village. The suma continued to flow, waves of laughter drowned out the music and the atmosphere reached a veritable crescendo of conviviality. It was a joy to share a moment of camaraderie with my accountant, rather than gazing at him through basilisk eyes as he dictates my TEBE obligations! While I sampled a mere thimblefull of Paraskevas’ excellently crisp white wine, he explained that there isn’t a permanent menu for his mezedes because they are different every day. He shops daily for his ingredients and selects the tastiest treats available each morning. Along with alcoholic drinks, he also offers high quality Italian coffee, Greek coffee and a range of soft drinks. A visit to Koukoutsi is a must for anyone wishing to experience a more traditional form of Greek social life or simply for delicious food, excellent drinks and great company. Tel: 6937-235-237. |
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Bakaliko - Paroikia
It is one of those tasks that involves fatigue, stress and frustration, and usually lacks any kind of reward or satisfaction. Often the best outcome one can hope for is that one is not obliged to visit every single office again the following day, but perhaps only one or two of them. My personal reward for navigating the bureaucratic jungle is a decent lunch, so I was very happy to learn that a new restaurant had opened within stumbling distance of those dismal offices that had so effectively depleted my finances yet again! In the main square (Mando Mavrogenous) of Paroikia, on the site of the old Argonauta Restaurant, Bakaliko boasts a shady terrace sumptuously furnished with large armchairs, solid wooden tables and deeply upholstered sofas. This is a haven where you can relax comfortably, confident that everyone who’s anyone will probably pass by. The menu is extensive and mainly traditional, but I was tempted by a chicken and mushroom first course I’d never heard of before, so my companion and I ordered that and a roka and parmesan salad to accompany it. The horrors of the offices soon began to fade with our first sips of their delicious house red and we indulged in a spot of “people watching” until the first courses arrived. Very soon we were munching into a fresh and colourful salad when the waiter presented us with a delicate crepe, gathered and tied so it resembled an enormous wanton. We cut into it eagerly to discover a filling of chicken and very tasty mushrooms in rich gravy. The chef’s own invention, this dish would make an excellent main course too. During a brief intercourse, we chatted with The Ladies that Lunch on the next table and, having brazenly secured a dinner invitation, turned our attention to the waiter heading rapidly in our direction. For our main courses, we selected soutzoukakia in red sauce and some grilled pancetta with fries. Served in a lovely old iron skillet, the pork was delicately flavoured with fresh herbs and it simply melted in the mouth. Whilst I generally tend to avoid harping on about pommes frites, I have to mention that these were crisp on the outside, fluffy on the inside and without a trace of grease. In fact, a jolly good show all round. The soutzoukakia were the best I can remember tasting, with an excellent texture, delicious flavour and coated in a sauce to die for which contained small slices of green olives that balanced the dish perfectly. Clearly this chef loves his art. For those wanting high quality traditional Greek food, in a comfortable and stylish environment, Bakaliko is the perfect eatery. You might also just drop in for a glass of wine (the wine list is extensive) and a plate of “mezes”. The service is friendly and professional and the interior is styled like many of the popular new restaurants opened recently in Athens. Alexis, who also owns the café next door, informed me that every other Sunday he has live music in the café (check the “what’s on” in Paros Life) when many locals come to drink suma and enjoy the band. You’ll probably see me there one Sunday having lunch and then popping next door to watch the show! Tel: 22840-23303. |
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Franca Scala
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Thank you to Vicki Preston at Paros Life magazine. For those who have ever thought about living on a Greek Island Paros Life will give you an idea of what it is like for the people who are actually doing it. With restaurant reviews and articles about a number of island topics, a section on the nearby island of Naxos, there is no better way to be introduced to an island community. For information on subscriptions e-mail Vicky at info@paroslife.com Thanks also to Bruce Hymers and Lornie ‘n’ Miriam who after reading their reviews have convinced me that when I return to Paros I want to go out to eat and drink with them. Actually these reviews make me want to move to Paros. For more on eating in Greece see www.greecefoods.com and for those who plan to spend time in Athens be sure to read my Athens Restaurant Guide. |
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Looking for somewhere special to go for an evening out or a great beachfront location in the summer months? George Sardis' “Tango mar” is open from April to October offering a wide selection of unusual and tantalizing dishes created for you by chefs Bora (from Brazil and Italy) and Harry (from Scotland) who have become well
known for their culinary talents since “Tango mar” opened in 2006. Located beside the water right at the end of Livadia Beach in Paroikia, with an unbroken view across the entire Bay of Paroikia,”Tango mar” is situated in an idyllic spot, perfect in the summer months for light lunches and refreshments by the beach and with an elegant indoor space for cooler evenings. 
Ideally situated at the far end of the picturesque fishing harbour in Aliki, Aqua Marine cafe/restaurant opened in June 2007 and quickly developed a regular clientele both among the visitors in the summer months and those locals and ex-pats “who stick it out” year round. 
This very special family owned restaurant has the most inviting swimming pool I have ever seen and we found it every bit as attractive as any coastal scene to gaze at over our meal. A huge "rubber tree plant" shades the toddlers pool while the mountains of Naxos provide a beautiful backdrop to this lovely setting. 
Porphyra; meaning “conch shell” was the first fish restaurant to open on Paros some 15 years ago and Yannis the owner is obviously just as comfortable speaking English as Greek. He studied tourism before beginning his career running restaurants for other people prior to opening his own, and so has a lifetime of experience in
customer service. 
I must confess to being concerned about how we were going feel about an inland restaurant after being spoilt by so many spectacular sea-side settings recently. I need not have worried as Maria Galatis and her family have gone to a lot of trouble to create a charming flower filled oasis among the nightclubs and parking, and the
result is what Miriam describes as “Another World!” 
We are writing this while still full of a superb lunch, in case having left the task for a few hours we forget something and fail to do it justice. Having seen, tasted and heard, we felt so enthusiastic about the experience and about the whole philosophy of business at Sigi Ihthios that we want to pass it on. 
Towards the far end of the seafront, away from the port towards the Pandrossos Hotel and easily identified by the huge tree that shades it, the Hibiscus family-owned restaurant is one of, if not the oldest, eatery on the island. Brothers Alexandros and Andonis have run it since the late 80’s but it dates back to the 1960’s.
Translated to me as meaning “whatever your appetite craves” Peri Orexeos restaurant has recently opened under the police station in Mando Mavrogenous Square Paroikia. 
Located on the hillside above Krios Beach close to Paroikia, the Agnanti Hotel boasts spectacular views of the bay of Paroikia and all the islands to the west of Paros. The dining terrace is very spacious and furnished with large round tables and comfortably upholstered designer chairs. 
Having been a big Magaya fan for many years, it was with pleasure we headed a short distance south of Paroikia to the pretty, tranquil, tear-drop-shaped bay known as Souvlia Beach. With golden sand, crystal waters and a tiny islet to swim to, this sheltered beach is a great choice for a dip, some rays or simply to while away the
afternoon. Nestled discreetly at the north end of the bay, Magaya comprises a large courtyard, well tended garden and a choice of three dining areas where you can eat with as much or as little sun as you want. 
With many tavernas trying to meet the demands of ever more culturally diverse visitors to Paros, it is always a treat to discover a source of good Greek home cooking. 
Enjoy a serene dinner in the minimalist cool white and blue modern environment of the Open Garden Restaurant & Lounge on the River Road in Naoussa, in the shade of palm trees and savouring the fragrance of citrus trees and jasmine. The well-rounded menu offers a selection of Mediterranean dishes incorporating creative
touches of Hellenic culinary tradition through the use of local produce, such as the Mastiha-flavoured sauce for roast meats and the filet of Dorado cooked in baking paper with aromatic herbs fresh from the garden, or a rocket salad dressed in bergamot balsamic essence with grilled haloumi cheese, pine kernels and sun-dried raisins. 
During my first years on Paros I remember wandering the labyrinth of Paroikia, my curiosity piqued by numerous walled gardens whose verdant foliage tumbled over thick whitewashed walls from behind which wafted the heady scent of jasmine and the promising tang of citrus blossom. 
In the centre of the old Agora of Paroikia Town, Evi Koutsoukou has created a beautiful dining space. Just off Septemvriani Street a few doors down on the opposite side from the Aegean Center, the Daphne Garden Restaurant has been offering fine dining to residents and visitors each summer since 1999. 
During my earlier years on Paros, longer ago than I care to admit, it was still a popular and enjoyable treat to visit an ouzeri or kafeneion for various plates of mezedes accompanied by small flasks of raki, ouzo or perhaps during the winter, rakomelo (a delicious and potent concoction of suma and honey). Gradually over
the years, tradition has given way to the mass market and the more usual offering today is a bowl of chips with your beer, or in my case, as most people know, a very large G&T. 
Like many of the more permanent residents of Paros, I am frequently forced to do the ‘paper-chase’, that mind- numbing trail along well trodden paths that connect the banks, the notary, the tax office, accountants and lawyers offices. 
Frangiskos and Moschoula Petropoulos bought the beautiful neo-classicalcorner building (previously a creperie and jewellery shop) at the
bottom of Market Street in the centre of the old Agora of Paroikia in
2008. After extensive refurbishing they opened a new high-class
restaurant, naming it Franca Scala after the area “of the Franks” in
which it is located.
